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AFKICAN HUNTING
LONDON
FEINTED
BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO.
NEW-STREET SQUARE
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Lon.d.on , B:l cliaxa. B entley;lB.6S.
AFRICAN HUNTING
FROM NATAL TO THE ZAMBESI
INCLUDING
LAKE NGAMI, THE KALAHARI DESERT, &c.
FROM 1852 TO 1860
WILLIAM CHARLES BALDWIN. Es<*., F.K.G.S.
With Illustrations by James Wolf and J. B. Zwecker
LONDON
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET
ipublisjwr in (Drbinarg to Her Utajrstg
1863
The right of translation is reserved
£5/
. Bj*]
Scmh03
TO MY BROTHER,
THE REY. T. RIGBYE BALDWIN, M.A.
WHOSE GREAT INTEREST IN MY WANDERINGS
WAS THE SOLE INDUCEMENT THAT LED ME TO TAKE NOTES,
THESE ANECDOTES OF HUNTING ADVENTURES
ARE AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY
THE AUTHOR.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.
1852.
1* A till
EARLY LIFE — LAND IN NATAL — FIRST HUNTING EXPEDITION TO ST. LUCIA BAY . 1
CHAPTER II.
1853.
HUNTING EXPEDITION INTO THE ZULU COUNTRY . , .29
CHAPTER III.
1854.
HUNTING EXPEDITION INTO THE AMATONGA COUNTRY 59
CHAPTER IV.
1855.
A HUNTING TRIP INTO THE ZULU COUNTRY . . . .95
CHAPTER V.
1856.
THIRD HUNTING TRIP INTO THE ZULU COUNTRY
. 112
Vlll
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VI.
1857.
PAGE
THE TRANSVAAL REPUBLIC — MERICO COUNTRY — THE MACCA- TEESEj OR BECHUANAS — SECHELE — THE MASARAS — THE BOERS — MOSILIKATSE . 142
CHAPTER VII.
1858.
MACHIN — I AM DESERTED — FIRST VISIT TO LAKE NGAMI — LECHULATEBE — SECHELE’S DAUGHTER — THE BUSH ON FIRE — MERICO . 231
CHAPTER VIII.
1859.
SICOMO’S — MASARAS — LAKE NGAMI — LOPEPE — RETURN BY VAAL RIVER — ANECDOTES OF CROSSING THE TUGELA . . . 304
CHAPTER IX.
1860.
RESULT OF A ZEBRA HUNT — REACH MERICO — VISIT SECHELE — ELEPHANT HUNT — THE BATOKAS — THE ZAMBESI FALLS — MEET WITH DR. LIVINGSTONE — INTENSE HEAT — ADVENTURE WITH A LION — AM JOINED BY ENGLISH TRAVELLERS — ACCI¬ DENT TO ENGLISHMEN — RETURN TO NATAL .... 364
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26. 27.
PAGE
|
An Alligator disappointed . |
. 10 |
|
A Boat attacked by Hippopotamus . |
. 19 |
|
Asleep in a River .... |
. 27 |
|
A forced Return .... |
To face 39 |
|
Knocked from a Hut by a Lioness . |
. 47 |
|
Shot a Hippopotamus |
. 89 |
|
Tbe Waggon and Oxen race down Hill |
. 97 |
|
Bead Alligator dragged into Water by Comrades |
. 101 |
|
Shot Rhinoceros — Calf and Dogs fighting . |
. 107 |
|
Inyala, Dogs, and Hyenas |
. To face 118 |
|
Two Lionesses roaring at me |
. 119 |
|
Hide-and-Seek with Buffalo |
. 123 |
|
Stalking Koodoos .... |
. 129 |
|
Leaped by a Buffalo |
. To face 139 |
|
A cold Encampment |
. 157 |
|
Giraffe Himted and Shot |
. 172 |
|
Black Rhinoceros tossing Dog |
. 196 |
|
Return to Camp by Moonlight |
. 197 |
|
Hunting Baboons .... |
. 209 |
|
Chased up and down Hill by Elephant |
. 213 |
|
My Beard admired by Natives |
. 218 |
|
Killing Snakes .... |
. 222 |
|
Giraffe Hunt — Herd of Buffaloes chasing . |
. To face 223 |
|
A Giraffe in a Tree .... |
. 242 |
|
Deserted and alone by Fire . |
. 251 |
|
Shot Oryx — Dogs wounded |
. 256 |
|
Native chased by Buffalo Cow and Calf |
. 258 |
X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
28. Elephant chases me .
29. Dining with Kaffir Chief
30. Travel by Moonlight
31. Forest on Fire
32. Hyena chased by Torchlight
33. Crossing the Tugela — A Ducking .
34. Zebra Hunt — Fall with Horse
35. Chase of three Elands
36. Shot a Gremsbok before Horse’s Feet
37. Horseback — Pass by savage Elephant
38. Chased by infuriated Buffalo
39. Chase of Ostrich
40. Lion Shot ....
PAGE
To face 262 „ 266 285 297 351 358 365 To face 376 „ 383
. 386 To face 404 „ 420
. 442
Ionian IticI aril Ben-fl.ey.lS62.
AFRICAN HUNTING
FROM NATAL TO THE ZAMBESI.
CHAPTER I.
1852.
EARLY LIFE - LAND IN NATAL - FIRST HUNTING EXPEDITION
TO ST. LUCIA BAY.
When the following pages taken from my journals were written, sometimes in ink, but often in pencil, gunpowder, tea, &c.,in Kaffir kraals or wagon bottoms, and chiefly for a brother’s eye, I little thought that they would ever come before the public ; and it is only now, at the earnest solicitations of my friends — and almost promises made to many I left behind me in Natal, who noticed the once short trips grow longer and longer, till, in my last, 2,000 miles of an almost unexplored country had been traversed and the Zambesi reached — that I am now induced, with some diffidence, to publish them.
Conscious that in going ten years back I am neces¬ sarily travelling over ground already pre-occupied
B
2
AFRICAN HUNTING.
by other sportsmen and travellers, and that the hospitality of my friends in England, and days with the Quorn and Mr. Tailby’s, combined with my natural aversion to any set task, have ill fitted me to redeem the monotony inseparable from a journal, or the apparent egotism in that of the lonely traveller, I nevertheless appear before the public, with the hope that if again I should return to the land of my adop¬ tion, beginning my travels where I have now left off, I may hereafter produce something better worth their perusal.
I feel that I owe a few words of explanation to my many friends in Africa as to the reasons why I went there at all, with a page of my earlier life which may perhaps be omitted by the general reader. The love of sport, dogs, and horses was innate in me. From the age of six I had my two days a week on my pony with the neighbouring harriers ; until, one unfortunate day, an extra achieve¬ ment, as I considered it, brought a kindly and well- meant caution to my father from the worthy squire, which had the effect of sending me off to school. There I got on, I suppose, much as others, and on leaving it, being of a roving turn of mind, I was placed in the large merchant’s office of an ex-M.P., with a view of being fitted for going abroad. No doubt I did my best (though, to say truth, my boats and bull-terriers, with our beagles, and meetings, somewhat militated against the duties and discipline of the office), till at last, upon comparing notes with
WHY I WENT.
3
the junior partner, we arrived at the same conclusion, viz., that quill-driving was not my particular voca¬ tion, nor a three-legged stool the exact amount of range to which I was willing to restrict myself through the sunniest part of life. So I went into Forfarshire to learn farming — very pleasant, but ending in what our transatlantic friends term a difficulty with the master. I changed my location to a West Highland farm, where on thirteen miles square of mountain, flood, moor, and lakes, some two acres of arable land, and two whiskey stills, the fond parent no doubt imagined that his hard- worked son was being duly initiated into all the science and mysteries of light Scotch farming. Be that as it may, what with the game, fish, and vermin,
my dogs and the round of trysts with old L - ,
than whom a better-hearted fellow never 6 took his morning,’ I was what might be called master of the situation. I look upon those years as among the happiest of my life. But time wore on, and having no earthly prospect of the command of anything like a moor or a stud in the old country, I cast about me for some land of greater liberty (at least of foot), and had engaged a fine young Scotchman to go with me ; but while debating whether Canada or the western prairies of America was to be my destination, two intimate friends, the sons of a neighbouring gentleman, who were going to Natal, advised that colony ; and Gordon Cumming’s book, which appeared at that moment, and as I thought
B 2
4
AFRICAN HUNTING.
in the very nick of time, settled me at once. My preparations were soon made ; my little all con¬ sisting chiefly of guns, rifles, saddles, ‘ et id genus omne.’ Perhaps the only expensive, and as it proved useless, part of my outfit, was seven deer¬ hounds, purchased from a keeper of Lord Pitz- william’s, for though Hotspur and Laddie were as good dogs as were ever slipped, they soon grew useless and died. The younger ones, being better acclimatised, did me some good service for a time, but they, too, soon succumbed to the climate, and taught me never again to take out what the country itself can furnish better.
I landed in Natal, December 1851, after a ninety- two days’ passage. I was most anxious to be introduced to 6 Elephant White,’ as he was called, a great hunter ; but whether he earned that title from his own elephantine proportions, six feet four inches, or from his prowess with the animal from which he derived his name, I have yet to learn. I believe he had been very successful formerly when elephants were more plentiful, but he had grown idle, and left the hard work to younger hands. This Mr. White was making preparations for a start into the Zulu country, hence my anxiety for an introduction. No such a thing, however, was needed in the Colony as it then was, and my dogs proved sufficient introduction to a brother sports¬ man. I made, I believe, some ridiculous offer, and joined the party ; and such was my keenness for
LEAVE THE COLONY.
5
the sport, that I verily jumped at the proposal to sleep under one of the wagons, both of which were crammed full up to the very tent, and one topped up with a boat, keel uppermost. But I would then rather have slept in six inches of water than not have gone at all. This trip consisted chiefly in the slaughter of sea-cows (as the hippopotamus is here called), which abounded in St. Lucia Bay, in the unhealthy season, just as if that God-forgotten land, as I have sometimes almost thought it, did not present sufficient drawbacks in itself, or hard¬ ships enough to encounter in everyday occurrences, without seeking out death. But so it was, and if older heads had only been placed upon the shoulders of the enterprising and the young, I might not have had to tell how out of nine hunters who went out full of vigour and hope, in all the ardour of enterprise, Gibson and myself alone returned, enervated and prostrate after months of insensibility in Kaffir kraals. I would gladly forget, and must pass by, some of the details of that trip.
Within three weeks from my landing we started — three wagons, seven white men, and lots of Kaffirs. The powder ordinances being very strict in those days, every wagon searched, and none allowed to leave town or cross the Tugela with more than ten pounds of powder, we each of us shouldered our weapon and carried ten pounds of powder on our backs, done up in a sort of knapsack fashion, till we had crossed the Tugela, the boundary of
6
AFRICAN HUNTING.
the Colony, seventy miles distant, when we pitched all into the wagons. Near the Umvoti, forty miles from Durban, we each hired a Kaffir to attend upon us individually, it being strictly prohibited to order another man’s Kaffir to do anything for you, as they have a great objection to wait on any but their own master, whom they generally attend faithfully, honestly, and willingly. When they understand your wishes, they are most obliging ; but most of the rows between black and white originate from their misunderstanding what you wish them to do. Two more white men joined us across the Tugela, Monies, a Scotchman, a capital and experienced hunter, but rash and daring to foolhardiness, and Price, as nice and gentlemanly a man as ever lived, and who was, I believe, a son of Sir Charles Price, the London banker. They both died, poor fellows, of fever, together with two others of the party, M‘Queen and Arbuthnot (the latter a fellow- passenger), within two months of our start. We got on very slowly, no one being in any hurry apparently, and as it was the rainy season, the rivers detained us, and the tracks were very heavy. My occupation, and indeed that of all, except the three wagon-drivers, was to shoot game — bucks, ducks, peaus, or anything we could get for the party, and I soon got into White’s good graces by my success and perseverance. It was the very thing of all others I had been longing for, and in those days I worked like a horse, and the
COMFORTABLE LODGINGS.
7
older hands were very glad to be saved the trouble. Reitbucks were very plentiful, duikers, and farther on, steinbucks ; and I could imagine no greater enjoy¬ ment than in shooting them, till every bone in my body ached again with sleeping on the wet ground. We had more or less wet every day, and frequently cold soaking rain all night. We tried to make our¬ selves more comfortable by fencing on the weather- side and cutting a deep trench round between the wheels, as the water came in more from underneath than above, but on wet nights, do what we would, we generally found ourselves in a pool of water in the morning — a lot of Kaffirs at our feet curled up like dormice in their blankets, and generally sleep¬ ing through everything, and a host of wet and dirty,, muddy, shivering, dreaming dogs on the top of us. The grass, which grew to a tremendous height, was so saturated, that one might just as well walk through a river, so there was no use in putting on dry clothes in the morning. Three were snugly housed in the wagons, and six of us had this fun to endure. Occasionally some of us tried the boat-wagon, but we found it like a cage I have heard of, made by one skilled in the refinement of cruelty, in which there was no possibility of either sitting, standing, or lying ; and eventually, I believe, we all gave that up as being, though dry, infinitely worse, for a con¬ tinuance, than any amount of rain.
On the 7th of January (1852) one of the party killed a sea-cow calf — very good food, tasting something
8
AFRICAN HUNTING.
like veal ; and I lost myself out buck- shooting on the plains of the Inyesan, but eventually found my way back in the dark, guided by signal-guns fired from the wagons, the plan we always adopted when any of our party were missing after sunset.
On the 12th, while treking leisurely along early, our whole party were put into a great flurry and excitement by seeing a large bull elephant cross some 400 yards ahead, quite unconscious of any danger. W e were in so great a hurry unstrapping our guns from the sides of the wagons, that all of us, except White, forgot to take our bandoliers and more bullets. Four of us went on foot after the elephant as hard as we could run. As he was going up wind on the open, he did not hear us till we were within twenty yards, when White shouted, and he immediately turned half round ; snap went White’s gun ; Arbuthnot and myself shot him behind the shoulder, and Ellis also, with a little twaddling weapon fifty to the pound. White meantime capped again, and, just as the elephant appeared hesitating whether to charge or not, gave him a good shot in the middle of the shoulder-blade. With a terrific scream the elephant turned and went off at a great pace, evidently crippled by the last shot. Eventually Ellis, myself, and Fly brought him to bay in some reeds three miles on, and the former, taking advantage of a commanding rock, on the top of which we were comparatively safe, gave him no less than nineteen bullets out of his
ELEPHANTS AND DUCKS.
9
pea-shooter (most of which we afterwards extracted from the elephant’s ear) ere White, whose wind was long since exhausted, at length got up and settled him with the fourth ball. Seeing the spoor of a large troop gone ahead (this old chap bringing up the rear proving that delays are dangerous), we broiled a rasher on the spot for breakfast, hard and tough as a halter, and away on the spoor some nine or ten miles, sending word to the wagons to outspan, and for a relay of powder and bullets ; but we never came up with them, and supposed they had taken alarm at hearing the shooting. Got back tired, at night, to a supper of elephant’s heart, very tender and good ; and breakfasted on the foot baked in a large hole, very glutinous and not unlike brawn,
1HA. — Went out duck-shooting at the mouth of the Umlilas ; it being high tide, the wagons were obliged to wait some hours to cross. Had capital sport ; heaps of wildfowl of all varieties, and very tame, and eventually bagged as many as I could hang round my waist-belt. As the sun was going down, and I saw the wagons ascending the opposite hills, having crossed at the drift some miles higher up, I endeavoured to cross opposite where I then was, though I had previously seen many crocodiles in the river. I got more than two thirds across, and was on a kind of island not deeper than my knees, and before me the stream ran deep and fast, about thirty yards wide. I had my gun and ammunition,
10
AFRICAN HUNTING.
all the ducks, and a heavy pair of shooting-boots, though the rest of my attire was light enough, consisting only of shirt and gaiters. Still I thought I could manage it, and pushed slowly off, making very short strokes with my arms for fear of losing
my gun, as it was laid across just under my chin, and I think I might have succeeded, had I not just at that moment seen the head of a huge crocodile, above stream, sailing down upon me, leaving a wake like a steamer behind him. I need hardly say I struck out legs and arms for my life, utterly unmindful of my gun, and in a few vigorous strokes made the opposite bank, breathless and frightened,
MOSQUITOES.
11
with the loss of my gun. The following morning Arbuthnot, Monies, Ellis, and myself went to try and recover it, and dived alternately, one firing shots from the shore, meanwhile, to scare the crocodiles. As the gun was a very valuable one, before relin¬ quishing the search, we made a capital drag, cut out of the bush like a huge rake, but all to no purpose, and I was obliged to put up with the loss.
ISth. — The wagons separated, two going to the King’s trading, and the other with five white men going to St. Lucia Bay sea-cow shooting. Outspanned at the Inseline (a small river), nearly devoured by mosquitoes.
I was here initiated in the art of trading with the natives, and bought an ox for four picks or hoes which the Kaffirs use for breaking up land to sow mealies, and which are worth in the colony Is. 6d. each. Beached the Black Umveloose, where we left the wagon in charge of a Kaffir chief, and sent the oxen some twenty miles back, the country farther ahead being very unhealthy for cattle, and indeed, for human beings too, only we did not know it at the time. Got out the boat, which was the inno¬ cent cause of many a miserable soaking night to myself and others. The mosquitoes were so dread¬ ful on the river banks, that we lighted cow-dung fires in every pot we had, and put them inside the now empty wagon, and all turned into it, and had the choice of two evils — to be worried by
12
AFRICAN HUNTING.
the mosquitoes, or almost stifled with heat and smoke in the wagon. I believe we all preferred the latter, and, as sleep was altogether out of the question, the general wish of all the party was for daylight, when the mosquitoes vanish. White- leaded and varnished the boat and made a sail, and tried a lot of iron bullets I brought out with me ; however, they did not answer at all, and I eventually threw them all away, as they were much too light and flew high, though they penetrated to a great depth.
Uth. — Launched the first boat ever seen in the Black Umveloose, and tried sleeping in a Kaffir hut, but I believe it was out of the frying-pan into the fire ; heat and mosquitoes intolerable, sour milk and Kaffir beer our fare, without meat of any kind.
25 th. — Tried a bath, to refresh us; three went in with a plunge, keeping, however, close to the bank, whilst the two on shore shouted, threw in big stones, and fired a shot or two to scare the crocodiles. Though numerous, they are very timid, and I don’t think there is much cause for fear when the above precautions are taken ; but although the bath refreshed us, none of us could be said to thoroughly enjoy it.
2Qth. — Having drawn lots who was to accompany Monies in the boat, he put the walkers across the river, on account of its height, and then returned and packed the boat with Gibson, to whose lot it fell to accompany him. Arbuthnot, Price, and myself walked across country with our Kaffirs and a guide
ELEPHANT SHOT.
13
some twenty-five miles, where we stayed for the night, and having forgotten to bring any beads or brass wire, I had to tear up my silk pocket hand¬ kerchief into lengths about two inches wide, with which the Kaffirs ornament their heads by making a sort of band across the forehead fastened behind, to buy amas, beer, and amobella meal to make porridge. Arrived at our destination about 2 p.m. the following day, and Monies and Gibson turned up about 8 the same evening, having left the boat some twenty miles back, not being able to get on any farther in consequence of the crocodiles having broken the paddles and oars. In drifting fast down the middle of the river, Monies saw an elephant in the reeds, pulled in and shot her dead within fifteen yards, between the ear and the eye, and having axes, they cut out her tusks and her ear and put them in the boat, and continued their journey. The smell of blood most probably made the cro¬ codiles so savage, and although Monies shot five of them, and three sea-cows, they eventually gained the victory, leaving him nothing but the handle of an oar to scull the boat ashore. They put all their belongings on a sandbank and turned the boat over them keel uppermost, and there left her, to make for more inviting quarters.
Went to the bush, and Price, Monies, and Arbuthnot being very handy fellows, made sculls and oars, and started with eight Kaffirs to carry the goods. On the 29th they found all as Monies had left them, and
14
AFRICAN HUNTING.
started again on the 30th for St. Lucia Bay* They pulled above twenty miles through a fine country ; lots of sea-cows, and wildfowl of every description ; and about midday were forced to go ashore, as the wind and sea were so dead ahead that they found they could make no way, and the boat was at times half full of water, so they about ship and ran before the wind, much to their delight, living on geese and water melons (capital things on a hot day) ; spent a very comfortable night before the fires, without any blankets ; and reached their destination at 12 next day, having shot two sea-cows on their way up.
I had employed my time by going out with the Kaffirs. I did not understand a word of their language, but by their signs I came to the conclusion that I was to remain by a small thorn tree, near a corner of the lake full of reeds. Gibson accompanied me. The Kaffirs all left us, and I fell asleep, to be suddenly awaked by Gibson in a great state of alarm bolting up the hill, and calling loudly to me to follow. As soon as my eyes were open, I saw a huge buffalo bull charging right down the hill towards me, pur¬ sued by all the Kaffirs. He came at a headlong pace within twenty yards before seeing me, when he hesitated an instant, dashed into the reeds and came broadside past me, within twenty-five yards, at a brisk trot, knee-deep in water, making it fly all over him in a shower of crystal. I fired, and luckily, for it was a bad shot, broke his spine, and down he fell bellowing like a bull-calf ; the Kaffirs rushed in pell-
BUFFALOES AND CROCODILES.
15
mell and drove twenty assegais into him, and finished him, complimenting me, I suppose, much on my prowess, though little credit was due to me, as I must confess to having felt very much alarmed at the suddenness of the whole thing, not having known in the least what I was placed there for.
31<s£. — Off an hour and a half before sunrise to Monies’s sea-cows, which had been towed ashore, and on emerging quietly through the bush, and tall, rank, soaking grass, to an open place, I saw some nine or ten crocodiles high and dry, gorged with sea-cow, and fast asleep. One enormous brute, twenty feet long at least, I wanted to shoot, but Monies would not allow it, as he hoped to get more sea-cows, and he feared a shot would frighten them and spoil our chances. I was not half satisfied, and said, ‘Well, anyhow let me have the satisfaction of giving him a kick in the ribs ’ (I was shod with heavy English shooting-boots) 4 by way of a memento,’ and was just in the act of raising my foot for the purpose when Monies suddenly drew me forcibly back, saying, 4 You fool, he ’ll crack your legs off like pipe-stumps with his tail ; ’ and that instant he woke up, and I had Monies to thank for saving me a broken bone at least, for I never saw anything like the whirl he gave his tail as he dashed into the water some fifteen yards ahead, and almost immediately floated like a log on the top of the water, taking a cool survey of his morning visitors. Shot my first sea-cow, and we made a lot of sjamboks and whips from his hide,
16
AFRICAN HUNTING.
such as are commonly used in Africa for driving oxen. They are very tough and supple when pro¬ perly dressed and brayed, and punish tremendously. The sjambok is the threat which the Dutchman in¬ variably holds out to a refractory Kaffir. We saw a most amusing chase of a broken- winged golden-goose by three crocodiles. He fell pinioned on the water, and these fellows immediately gave chase, going very fast, and leaving a wake like a ship behind them. When very hard pressed the goose dived, to be worse off than ever, and came up 6 quack, quack,’ from abject fear ; he managed to flap a bit along the top of the water and get a start, but they came up with him again, and he at last took the land. We were in a boat watching the fun. The crocodiles did not follow him, and the poor thing eventually allowed me to catch him on land sooner than face his enemies in the water again.
The sea-cow bacon would not keep, owing to the damp weather, and we had many hardships to endure from the incessant rain. At last, we made what is called a hartebeest house, of very tall reeds, stuck close together in a kind of trench dug for them in bundles, and meeting over head, and they kept off a great deal of bad weather ; still we were rarely what could be called dry at nights, and spent three-fourths of almost every day all depths in the water, and exposed to scorching suns, towing sea- cows ashore, as we generally provided work for the day before we breakfasted, for the tusks had to be
DAILY WORK.
17
cut out, the best of the meat salted, and all the inside fat rendered down. The pots for that purpose were scarcely ever off the fire until the bottoms were burnt out. We were infamously provided with everything, and we used the bladders of the sea-cows to put the lard in — necessity being the mother of invention.
It was no wonder, then, that I was taken ill on the 10th (February), with racking pains in my head, and giddiness and faintness, and was left behind at a Kaffir kraal, with a small bag of rice, and my Kaffir, Inyati (Buffalo), a big six-foot fellow, to attend to me. He was very young, and a magnificent specimen of a savage ; he looked after me like a child, and nothing could exceed his kindness and attention to all my wants, and he risked his fife more than once in my service. Monies told the captain of the kraal to give me milk when I required it, in return for which he would give him a blanket. The captain promised to do so, but never brought me a drop, and Inyati used to go into the cattle-kraal in the middle of the night and bring me my tin cup full, holding about a pint, and see that I drank every drop, lest they should find him out, in which case his punishment for stealing would most probably have been death, the only punishment they know of. He would pass the day in scouring the country for wild fruits. I had a medicine-chest with me, and took lots of emetics, ipecacuanha, Hover’s powder, calomel, &c., but did myself more harm than good, not knowing the quantity, or anything about it, in fact. I passed a week on my back on a hard cold floor, a Kaffir
c
18
AFRICAN HUNTING.
mat and a blanket being all my covering ; got better, and joined the rest of the party, who had been having great sport, having killed something like twenty sea-cows each. Monies and Arbuthnot, Price and Gibson, did not shoot, or could not hit anything. They told me I looked as if I had been whitewashed. I found things looking much more comfortable — a sort of camp erected on some high land overlooking the bay, and directly opposite where the river St. Luey runs in, drying-houses for meat, &c., and a large hartebeest house to sleep in, which was moderately dry from above, but terribly wet below, after heavy rain ; heard lions and hyenas every night.
As the Kaffirs all round the country were well supplied with meat, they declined any longer to bring us meal, beans, beer and milk, in exchange for flesh ; so, after cutting what we wanted off a sea-cow, we towed her out again into deep water and sunk her. Monies did this on two or three occasions, and the Kaffirs, quite shocked at such a waste of food they are so fond of, ever afterwards brought us small baskets of the different produce of the country as presents.
21s*. — Had a very narrow escape of an upset. Monies wounded a calf, and it bellowed out lustily close to the boat ; the cow immediately rushed at the boat, caught it about the stern, and raised it clean up on end, half filling the boat with water. Monies fired at it, and the shot went into its back and through its lungs, and it shortly died. Caught some good
NARROW ESCAPE,
19
barbel, and shot a very fine bull ; towed him within one mile of camp, and had to leave him on account of a strong wind and sea running against us.
28th. — Had great sport at the mouth of the Inyelas. Arbuthnot and Monies each shot two, myself four ; saw upwards of forty altogether. We sailed down upon them fast, keeping the boat exactly trim, that we might shoot steadily ; suddenly lowered the sail (a piece of blue calico) flat, and the sea-cows showed capital heads, being very curious to know what on earth was coming down upon them like that. We shot well that day, and Price managed the boat to admiration ; and not the least amusing thing was seeing scores of Kaffirs going in to bring them out. The water at the head of the bay being shallow, they take hold of each other’s hands, shouting for their
20
AFRICAN HUNTING.
very lives to scare the crocodiles, not unfrequently many of the middle ones swimming short distances, but not loosing their hold of one another for a mo¬ ment. The crocodiles seemed afraid to attack so large a body, though very far in the lake ; the Kaffirs showed great courage, but they never ventured into deep water singly or in small numbers.
On the following day, as it was too rough for sea- cows, we crossed the lake to have a day’s shooting in the bush opposite. After lunching on a wildebeest we shot, I left my knife behind, and Monies kindly returned with me to find it, foolishly leaving our guns behind ; he walked very fast, and was fifty yards ahead of me, when three lions walked leisurely out of a bush not ten yards in front of him. Monies, having drawn a huge clasp-knife, his only weapon, remained perfectly firm and collected, and eyed the lions for a few seconds, when they made off for the bush, 200 yards away. Waited some hours for the wind to go down, and had hard work to get across. I thought we must have been swamped. The sea-cows were making up the river, and Arbuthnot stunned one with a ball, just touching the brain. We fired alternately, three of us putting sixteen bullets, seven to the pound, in different parts of her head before killing her.
March 5 th. — Thunder and rain like a second deluge all night. Got up like drowned rats. I had my first attack of ague, and Gibson, seeing my teeth chattering in my head, and frightful convulsions, could stand it no longer, and bolted very wisely with
EIKST AGUE.
21
two Kaffirs back again to the Black Umveloose, where we left the wagon and some surplus stores, and I have no doubt in my own mind saved his life by so doing.
9 th. — Edmonstone arrived with a message from White, saying he wms not coming, and we must start the Kaffirs off at once with all the sea-cows, ivory, lard, bacon, &c., and all the spoils of the chase, amounting to fifty-five sea-cows, and only one elephant. Started the Kaffirs off on the 11th, heavily laden, a long string of them, and we pulled the boat round again to the mouth.
12 th. — Broke up our camp, as usual, with a huge bonfire, and started on foot with thirty Kaffirs carry¬ ing ; paid them on arrival with brass wire and blue salempore, or calico. I did not arrive till the 15th, dead knocked up, the journey quite overpowering me in my weak state. Inyati, my Kaffir, stalked ahead, carrying everything but my gun, which I was forced to lug along myself ; and many a time during the march, being quite exhausted, I was obliged to knock under, and lay down under a shady tree till I had recovered. After calling and shouting in vain for me to come on, he would leave me, and apparently go on his journey. He could not have been carrying less than eighty pounds weight of one thing and another, principally a huge calabash of fat, with which they smear their bodies all over, and value it immensely, and therefore could not possibly render me any assist¬ ance ; but his going away was only a make-believe, to
22
AFRICAN HUNTING.
try and induce me to follow, as the faithful fellow always returned to look me up. I at last, however, reached the wagons completely exhausted, and very, very ill, and shall have a wholesome recollection of that walk as long as I live. Found Gibson and Charley Edmonstone very ill, and joined them. Monies, Gibson, and Price arrived the same night without the boat, not being able to pull up against the stream, or to get her carried by Kaffirs. I was very much worn out from the cold and incessant rain.
On the 16th we started for Katal, and I can give from this date but a very poor account of anything more that occurred, as I must have had many days’ insensibility myself. What I do recollect was that Arbuthnot and Monies joined the wagons again on the 20th, after two very hard days’ elephant-hunting on foot, during which Arbuthnot killed one. Arbuthnot complained of being very ill, and threw himself down in the hut, from which he never rose, dying the fol¬ lowing day of fever and ague. We made the best of our way to Katal to get advice for the rest of the sick, but on reaching our destination poor Price died also, within forty miles of the town. Monies stayed behind to bring out another wagon, having never had an hour’s illness, when he suddenly took despe¬ rately ill, and died next day. McQueen reached Durban, where he died in a few days, though he never went into the unhealthy country at all ; Purver, Hammond, and Etty, three elephant-hunters of White’s party, also died in the Zulu country about the same
EFFECTS OF CLIMATE.
23
time ; Gibson, Eclmonstone, Charley Edmonstone, and myself eventually, but not for nearly twelve months, got better again. We were all, I think, carried out of the wagons in Durban more dead than alive, and I shall never forget the very great kindness and atten¬ tion I received from Mr. and Mrs. Tyzack, to whose house I first wTent on landing in the colony, and where I was now taken. In the course of a few weeks, I was able, by the advice of my physician, to go up to Pieter Maritzburg for change of air, where Mr. Collins, the post-master and a fellow-passenger of mine, most kindly took me into his house, treated me with the utmost attention, and forestalled my every want. It is to Mrs. Collins’s nursing and care — and all the little delicacies, so grateful and refreshing to a sick man, which a woman’s fore¬ thought can alone supply — that I am indebted for my eventual recovery, after a very long illness. On first getting into the scales, on being able, with assistance, to get about a little, I only weighed five stone and eleven pounds ; but laid on weight again, shortly after, almost as fast as I must have lost it, and regained strength altogether, on the high lands of the Inanda, about twenty-two miles from Durban and nine from the sea, where I joined White on a 9,600 acre farm of Proudfoot’s, built a w^attle and dab-house, and existed there, almost alone — I can hardly call it living — for two years or more, I should think, selling cattle to Kaffirs, which White traded in the Zulu country and brought
24
AFRICAN HUNTING.
or sent out to me. I have sometimes sold forty or more in one day, and had upwards of 600 on the place at one time, averaging, anywhere in those days before the lung sickness, from 10s. to 2 l. a head, for which the Kaffirs in Natal always paid cash.
It was a horrid weary, solitary, monotonous life ; not often could I prevail upon anyone to come and stay with me, certainly not unless driven to it, as was not unfrequently the case, by having no other home and no money - — when they would pay me a visit till something better turned up. Cer¬ tainly I had no great inducement to offer to them to remain : lean fowls, salt beef and rice, and heavy, ill-baked bread, was our fare, varied occasionally by bucks, partridges, and bustards ; tea and coffee our only beverage. I must not, however, omit oceans of milk, most of which the Kaffirs and dogs ran through, and I won’t say but that it might have been possible to have been very comfortable ; all I can say is, that the experience I had of it gave me such a wholesome dread of the like ever again occurring, that I took to the wandering gypsy-life I have ever since led. I was never without two or three horses and a host of dogs, and, though they assisted very materially, together with my rifle and shot guns, to get through the days, yet the long evenings, the everlasting roar made by my Kaffirs, frequently continuing half the night, rats squeaking, gnaw¬ ing, and scraping in every room, and almost everything that I brought out being long since
CHEERFUL.
25
eaten into shreds by white ants, which were fast undermining the posts and walls of our habitation, made me think another Zulu trip would be prefer¬ able to remaining alone any longer ; consequently, I shut up the establishment, and went in again the following year.
My nearest neighbours were Mr. Lindley, a mis¬ sionary from the American Mission Society, a man most deservedly respected and esteemed by all in the colony, his amiable wife and charming family, at whose hospitable house I always felt myself quite at home. I used frequently to ride over on Sundays to Kaffir service, or whenever I could frame an excuse for making a break in my existence, and, after passing an evening with him and his united family, it put me so much in mind of my own home, that I used to feel in a better frame of mind for weeks to come, though the contrast was very great between his cheerful, comfortable house, and happy family, and my own solitary, dismal-looking abode — a deal table and a lot of velt stools and wagon chests the only furniture, and myself the only inhabitant.
One day, at St. Lucia Bay, after partly recovering from my first attack of fever, we went sea-cow shooting, and I was landed on a small island among the reeds, knee deep in water and very warm. After waiting some time for a shot, and feeling very weak and weary, I beat down a big bundle of reeds and sat upon them, my legs dangling in the water, and went fast asleep. Meantime, Arbuthnot and Monies
‘26
AFRICAN HUNTING.
were shooting and driving sea-cows, which showed good heads past my hiding-place, and they could not imagine why I did not shoot, but in the excite¬ ment of their own hunting forgot where they had left me, and poor Monies said they hallooed in vain ; but he had noticed three or four of the largest crocodiles swimming backwards and forwards in one place, and close into the island, and on pulling in found me fast asleep within fifteen yards of these
pleasant companions, who, no doubt, would soon have made a meal of me. All the sympathy my unenviable and dangerous position excited was being soundly rated for going asleep and not bag¬ ging a couple of sea-cows ; but I felt too grateful for being rescued to be angry in my turn.
Whilst on the subject of crocodiles, I will relate an
NARROW ESCAPE.
27
anecdote that happened to me on the St. Luey’s month, where it runs into St. Lucia Bay. I shot a goose, almost full grown, though a flapper, and he was drifting nicely to my feet, when he un¬ accountably disappeared. Not taking particular notice at the time, I thought lie might possibly have partly recovered and dived. Gibson was with me at the time, and, disappointed of our intended roast, as we had not breakfasted, I shot another, and he likewise disappeared in the same place and manner. There being plenty, I shot a third, and, determined not to lose this one, went gradually into the river to meet him, armed with a heavy lancewood loading-rod shod with iron, and had nearly got up to my middle, making a tremendous noise and splashing to scare the crocodiles, when, just as I was stretching out my arm to reach my goose, he suddenly went under water. I had no fears in those days, and did not know the real danger, so I made a grasp and caught the goose by the leg, striking the water as hard as ever I could. In an instant the goose came in halves, the legs, back, and some of the entrails falling to my share, Mr. Crocodile getting the better half, and two or three violent blows on the nose into the bargain. I need hardly say I lost not an instant in getting ashore again, and did not think much at the time (which is often the case) of what a foolish thing it was to do, and what a narrow escape I had had. It is only once in a man’s lifetime he does these dare¬ devil sort of things, and it is wonderful how lucky
*28
AFRICAN HUNTING.
he invariably comes off ; but a few more years, and a wider experience, make him as cautious as those whom he once thought timid. It is equally difficult for youth and age to hit that golden mean, which is no doubt the best way in hunting, as in other things, to attain the main object — bagging your game.
•29
CHAPTEE II.
1853.
HUNTING EXPEDITION INTO THE ZULU COUNTRY.
July \hth.— We started on our Zulu expedition from the Inanda with two wagons, Gibson and myself going on horseback across country. We got out of our way, and fell in with a hospitable Scotch¬ man and his wife. On going up a steep hill, leading two horses, I went to touch up one that was hanging back, when my mare took fright, and, after several plunges, succeeded in kicking me in the stomach and arm, though not very severely. I was able to go in pursuit in a few minutes, and, after more than two hours’ hard chasing, suc¬ ceeded in driving her into a Kaffir kraal. At sunset I reached Fuller’s, where the wagons had just arrived.
YJtli. — After sundry 4 doctors,’ concoctions of rum, eggs, and new milk, we inspanned and got under weigh to the Tongaart. We loaded the wagons with, two muids (360 lbs.) of mealies, Edmonstone’s traps, and a host of blankets, treked on some eight miles by moonlight, and outspanned for the night.
30
AFRICAN HUNTING.
18 th. — We were delayed in starting by the oxen having strayed. We treked to the Umslali, saddled up and rode to Maclean’s, where we took in a sack of potatoes, and stored our pockets with capsicums. I killed a koran.
KM. — Again we commenced the day by losing the oxen, which were not found till after midday. We reached the Umvoti after dark. I made two nose-bags for my horses, and had some good fun trying to make my mare stand on the velt, every attempt being a signal failure. She set my nooses at defiance, and ended by breaking the bridle.
2(M. — To-day I engaged two Kaffirs, Jack and Jacob ; and brought a muid of mealies for the horses. On coming into a mud sluit, down a steep bank, the sudden check of the wagon threw me off the box, under the near wheel, which passed over above my knee. I rolled out of the way of the other wheel, and fortunately escaped without further injury than a very severe bruise. Though I had no bone broken, my thigh swelled very much, and the shaking of the wagon increased the irritation and gave me great pain. It was a wonderful escape, as there were 3,000 pounds weight of picks in the wagon, and nothing but the fact of the ground being very soft where I fell could have saved a broken thigh ; the swelling was so rapid that my trousers had to be slit up with a knife in order to get them off, and for the next twelve hours I had two Hot¬ tentot women, the wives of the drivers, rubbing in
CROSS THE TUGELA.
31
turpentine and oil, their infallible remedy for bruises. Their beautifully formed, delicate, diminutive hands, ancles, wrists, and feet, a marked feature in all Hottentots, presented a singular contrast to their repulsive monkey-like faces.
21 6^.— We got as far as the Umvoti, where we joined Gassiot’s wagon, which had been waiting our arrival for three weeks ; treked on some six miles, with four wagons and a host of Kaffirs^ Hottentots, men, women, and children of all sorts, colours, and sizes, who, having got possession of a case of gin that Gibson had in his wagon, spent the most noisy, quarrelsome, abusive night I ever witnessed.
On the 22nd we crossed the Tugela, the boun¬ dary of the colony, half a mile wide, without accident, the river being very low, and treked on about four miles, where we met Mr. Clifton of Lytham, a lieutenant in the Bifie Brigade, who was also on a hunting trip, and had been waiting our arrival some days. He was at a low ebb ; a friend of his, Mr. Fletcher, having just been killed by a cow-elephant, which they were about to shoot, when it charged and killed Mr. Fletcher before a shot had been fired. This was the first they had seen; rather an unfortunate beginning. Mr. Fletcher had only been a few days in the colony.
On the 23rd we crossed the Matakoola, and out- spanned four miles beyond. The following morning White, Gibson, Steele, and myself mounted at sun¬ rise, in quest of elands. We fell in with a herd of
32
AFRICAN HUNTING.
about seventeen, and gave chase at a killing pace, very soon overhauling them. Gibson and Steele fired without effect, White giving . a bull a shot rather too high up in the shoulder. However, he separated from the herd, and Steele gave him a finisher about a mile off, where he had taken the water and was standing at bay. After a long chase, I brought down the largest bull in the troop, shoot¬ ing him dead off the pony Billy, being unable to pull up and fire, in consequence of my leg being still very painful. It was his first essay at elands as well as my own, and he proved himself a good one, running very stout and fast. After returning to camp for breakfast, I rode out again with Clifton and twenty Kaffirs to bring the meat home, some five or six miles.
25 th. — We treked on to a high hill called the Gun, some ten miles farther ; a very cold, raw day, with slight showers. Maclean ran against a bank in going into a sluit, got pitched off the box, and nearly upset the wagon on the top of him. We saw a fine herd of elands, but are keeping them for to-morrow. I made my first attempt at preserving, on the head of a cow-eland I shot yesterday, and found it a long, tedious job. I engaged another Kaffir, Mafuta (Grease) by name, a strong, likely- looking fellow.
2 Qth. — This morning we found that Maclean’s after¬ ox, Basket, had been killed by a lion. We treked on a few miles and then outspanned, with a fine herd
ELANDS.
33
of elands in full view. We saddled and went in pursuit, the ground being very heavy and boggy. Clifton and myself tried to head them and bring them to the wagon, but they made exactly the contrary way. After a very hard and long burst, Clifton shot a calf, and about two miles farther I put a ball through the ribs of a fine old bull, but as Billy was dead beat, I did not bag him.
The next day we treked on to the Umlilas, where we waited five hours for the river to go down, and outspanned for the night on the top of the hill on the other side. On the 23th we crossed the Um- slatoosi, a large party : five wagons, seventy oxen, fifty men, women, and children, twelve horses, and eleven dogs. The following day, however, this number was considerably reduced by the departure of eleven of the Kaffirs to trade for different mem¬ bers of our party.
On the 30th we crossed the Impangane, a small river, near which we had to remain for several days. I got a good soaking in the bush, looking for guinea- fowl without success. As I had done my leg no good by the walk, I laid down in the wagon, eating cheese and jam, and enjoying Sponge’s c Sporting Tour.’ The game here was very scarce and wild ; but we were well supplied with milk, amas, tchualla, mealies, Kaffir corn, and all the Kaffir produce, and we had some laughable scenes in our bartering.
We were much amused by the bellows used by
D
34
AFRICAN HUNTING.
two Kaffir smiths, who were trying to mend one of the wagons which had broken down. The bellows consists of a small clay tube or pipe next the fire, and two cows’ horns fastened on two leather bags, which are kept alternately open and shut. It requires some knack to work, but when skilfully handled it makes a really good current of air, producing a red-hot charcoal fire in a few minutes.
August 6th. — Notwithstanding a dreadfully stormy day, high wind and rain, and severe cold, we treked on a few miles. In the evening a panther seized Hope¬ ful by the throat almost from under the wagon, and within five yards of the tent where we were eating our supper in the dark, on account of the wind. We all sallied out just in time to save the dog, who got off with a frightful wound in the throat, which swelled nearly as big as his body. It was too dark, however, to shoot the panther.
7th. — Got safely up Panda’s stony hill, the worst I ever saw, it being all that twenty-two oxen could manage to drag up one wagon ; but the poor things were labouring under great disadvan tage, most of them having the tongue and clove sickness. The next day we came in sight of Nedwingu, Panda’s kraal, but we were still some fifteen miles distant, owing to the hilliness of the country. Our progress was very slow, on account of the illness of the oxen. On the 10 th we saw a herd of koodoos, and were told by the Hottentots who brought us wood at night, that there
BUFFALOES.
35
was a herd of buffaloes near the river Umveloose, and we agreed to wage war on them at sunrise.
Accordingly, we were off at peep of day with seven guns, and after about three-quarters of an hour’s hard walking, over frightfully stony ground, came in sight of a herd of about forty buffaloes, but they made off out of shot, hearing the noise we made over the stones. After two hours’ hard chase, running and dodging in all directions, five were brought to bag. Steele had a narrow escape ; a young bull, with his leg broken and his tail shot off, just hit him on the heel as he dropped his gun and sprang into a thorn-tree. I shot a fine fat young cow at full speed, hard pressed by three dogs, right through the spine and lungs. She fell bellowing after a few yards, almost on the top of the one which had charged Steele, and which I afterwards killed myself. The cow I shot was claimed by Anton, who had given her the first bullet, without the slightest injury ; but the rules of the chase are, that the first shot lays claim to the animal, the bullet being the proof. Edmonstone had given the young bull the first shot, and therefore claimed him, so I had my sport for nothing. The Zulus, hearing the shooting, came down like so many vultures ; but the lazy blackguards refused to lend a hand to carry the meat back to the camp, and one fellow was caught helping himself to some nice steaks from a leg cut off, and ready to be taken to camp, by our own Kaffirs. White knocked him over with a heavy stone in the ribs, and the rest made themselves scarce for a little
36
AFRICAN HUNTING.
while. They knew, however, that they would ulti¬ mately get the lion’s share of the meat, as it was utterly impossible that our party, though twenty strong at least, could carry the whole of the meat of six buffaloes, especially on such ground — a tremen¬ dously steep, stony hill, some four miles from camp — and at night they could take all with impunity. White, however, kept watch till the choicest parts, the tongues, &c. were secured. We got back about 12 o’clock, and drank a great quantity of tea and coffee, and breakfasted on buffalo kidneys — a great luxury — a few quails, and a dikkop (thickhead), the daintiest bird in the colony, fully equal to woodcock. The poor dogs, too, came in for their share, and had as much as ever they could cram into them.
On the afternoon of the 12th we crossed the Umveloose, and outspanned within a mile of Ned- wingu, Panda’s kraal, which we rode up to see on the following morning. It is fully two and a half miles round, and contains nearly 2,000 huts. We did not see his sable majesty, but were honoured by drinking a calabash of tchualla with his prime minister Likwazi, through whom we sent presents of beads and blankets to Panda.
The next few days were wet and raw, and all hands were busy making and repairing velt shoes. One afternoon we were coming well on a fine herd of buffaloes sleeping, when a Kaffir hit my unfor¬ tunate dog Hopeful with a stone. The dog, who was more dead than alive from the effects of the
BUFFALOES.
37
encounter with the panther, roared awfully. The buffaloes started off, and, though we gave chase as hard as we were able, we could never get within shot.
2(M. — We were early in the saddle, and took dif¬ ferent routes to endeavour to circumvent a herd of buffaloes which were to be seen from the wagon. Edmonstone and myself had just reached our post when a bullet whistled most unpleasantly near us, closely followed by nine buffaloes. I immediately endeavoured to head them back, but the ground was so stony and bushy that I only lamed my pony, and tore my hands to pieces, without doing any good. I frequently got close to them, but before I could dis¬ mount they were out of sight in the bushes. Steele’s Kaffir broke the leg of a fat young cow. She charged straight at one of White’s horses, and the Kaffir who was holding him struck his assegai into her ribs.
On the 22nd, Edmonstone, myself, and three Kaffirs set off' to ascend the highest hill in the neighbourhood. After walking hard all day we reached the bottom, where we bought amas, tchualla, meal, &c., with beads : supped sumptu¬ ously on a fat peau I killed, and slept in a kraal. The next morning we ascended the hill. It was a long and heavy pull, but we were rewarded by a fine view of the surrounding country, very hilly on all sides, but not well wooded. We got back to the wagons about noon on the following day, rather jaded and footsore.
31 st. — We all saddled up early to pay a visit to
38
AFRICAN HUNTING.
Panda. His Majesty, however, was asleep, and liis attendants did not dare disturb him. After re¬ maining some time we were ordered to go to the gate and wait there, so we took huff and rode away without seeing him, broke up our camp, made a great bonfire of all the huts the Kaffirs had erected, and once more proceeded on our journey. We had not gone more than two miles when one of Panda’s captains came up in a great fury, swearing awfully by the bones of Dingaan, Chkka, the much-dreaded and cruel, and other renowned warriors of the nation, that if we did not immediately turn back, an impi (regiment 500 strong) would be down upon us and kill us instanter. He was in a great state of excitement, would not hear of our outspanning or delaying our return a moment, said the signal for attack was crossing that watercourse (pointing to a running stream not twenty yards ahead) ; and as we were entirely in their power, we thought dis¬ cretion the better part of valour, and did as we were ordered, looking very foolish in both our own and our followers’ eyes. Panda had always opposed our wish to go that way, and it was bearding the lion in his den, and most foolish and misjudged on the part of White, to go in direct opposition to his orders. On passing his kraal gates we went through two lines, at least 200 yards long, of magnificent men, armed with assegais, shields, knobkerries, and knives, in close file, waiting only the slightest intimation from His Majesty to annihilate us instantly. It was a
PANDA STOPS THE WAY.
39
nervous moment; I did not half admire it, and all our Kaffirs were in the utmost alarm : a dead silence was maintained by everyone ; and poor White was awfully annoyed and vexed about it. To do him justice, I believe, if any of us would have stood by him, he would have infinitely preferred shooting half a dozen and being spitted himself, to the dis¬ grace to white men of having to obey a Kaffir ; but it was all brought on by his own obstinacy.
Likwazi, the prime minister before mentioned, came down to us — a fat, good-tempered, jovial fellow — made the peace, and eventually all was settled amicably ; but our long-meditated route was peremp¬ torily forbidden, and we were obliged to rest satis¬ fied with the shooting Panda thought fit to give us in the Slatakula bush, where the old fellow knew well there were rarely any elephants worth shooting. He is a wily old savage. On Clifton wishing parti¬ cularly to see him out of curiosity, though he sent many presents to him, the only answer he sent was, 4 1 have nothing to say to him ; does he think me a wild beast, that he is so anxious to see me P I won’t see him.’ Nor did he see any of the party but White and the interpreter.
September 1st. — Treked on our way back again. Some Kaffir boys told us of a herd of elands. White, Edmonstone, and myself went in pursuit, and after a sharp burst round a big hill, White came upon them. I also ran to get a shot, and we each of us had two shots at not more than a hundred
40
AFEICAN HUNTING.
yards, every bullet telling into some part of them, but none fell, and we had the mortification of seeing them all go away and make for the hills, where we had no chance of reaching them.
2nd.— We got safely to the bottom of Panda’s stony hill, and parted company with Steele. The next day we struck down into a deep valley of the White Umveloose, in quest of large game. After some very hard climbing, we all returned to the wagons with only one eland bull.
5 th. — Struck off the road, and made for the Slata- kula bush. As we were obliged to clear a way for the wagons, we made but slow progress.
1th. — The Kaffirs told us there was a large herd of elephants within a few miles. I went in pursuit, accompanied by two Hottentots and two Kaffirs ; supped on a buffalo, which some Zulu Kaffirs had killed, and spent a tolerably comfortable night in the open air, notwithstanding a few showers of rain. At daylight we started again, hunted without any encouragement, and returned to the wagons under the impression that the Kaffirs were humbugs.
After cutting our way through the bush with great difficulty, on the 10th we came in sight of the Black Umveloose, when we saw three rhinoceroses, a herd of elands, and a herd of buffaloes from the wagons. The greater part of the night we were kept awake by lions, tigers, and wolves. Fly, venturing too near, was caught and severely bitten in the throat by a tiger, but escaped with fife.
RUMOURS OF LIONS.
41
11th. — Crossed the Black Umveloose, a very bad drift, and outspanned on some beautiful new grass, which was quite refreshing after all the dry, withered stuff we had been seeing so long. We saw lots of bucks and koodoos. In the afternoon we treked on to a Kaffir kraal, where we got oceans of milk, amas, &c. The Kaffirs told us that the lions had got into the kraal the evening before ; we therefore drew up the wagons and made the best barrier we could for the horses, and all slept with our guns at hand. The lions, however, disappointed us.
On the 12th our party broke up, White’s two wagons and Grassiot’s going on to trade. Maclean and Edmonstone went on with them, while I took up my quarters with Clifton, intending to stay a week or so for shooting. The next day we treked away from the kraal, the Kaffirs stunning us with their noise, and outspanned a few miles off. Leggins and I lost the wagon, having misunderstood where they were to outspan, and were first initiated into the art of making fire with two dry sticks. I saw a buffalo bull cantering leisurely in the direction of Leggins, and hallooed to him to look out. He had seen the bull, and made for a tree as hard as legs could carry him. The old bull snuffed danger in the wind, but could not make it out, and actually stood under the very tree within two feet of Leggins, who was so paralysed with fear that he had not strength to shoot. It was long before he ventured to come down, and then he got off as quickly as he
42
AFRICAN HUNTING.
could, thinking that he, and not the buffalo, had had a wonderful escape.
14 th. — From the top of a hill I saw two herds of what I took for buffaloes, but just as I was going after them I had the mortification of discovering that they were wildebeests. However, I mounted, and seeing two old bull buffaloes standing under a tree, managed to get within twenty-five yards, when five old bulls jumped up. I rolled over the first like a rabbit, shooting him through the lungs. I then heard Clifton firing, and rode in that direc¬ tion, when we saw a large herd of elands and one fine old bull as blue as a slate. The ground was bad for a horse, being bushy with long grass and full of large stones. I went away, however, at a hand gallop, and keeping below the wind and under the hill, managed to come up with them. I singled out the old bull, and, after some hard riding through the bush, losing my hat and tearing my shirt and hands, to pieces, I drove him from the herd, and shortly afterwards, taking advantage of 100 yards of open, tumbled off and gave him a ball high up on his hind leg, but without doing him much injury. He kept along at a swinging pace through the bush ; I could not wait to load, for fear of losing sight of him. The ground was frightful, and I thought I never should have come up with him, though Billy carried me marvellously. At the edge of a steep kloof leading into thick bush, where I must inevita¬ bly have lost him, the bull suddenly came to bay,
PLEASURES OF HUNTING.
43
and made a stand facing me. I gave him a bullet in the breast, and he rolled down to the bottom of the kloof. I went down to inspect my prize, but all my efforts were unavailing to cut his head off, from the position in which he had fallen, and I was obliged to leave the noble animal for the lions, wolves, jackals, and vultures.
15 th.— Started off with a host of Kaffirs of both sexes to see what the lions had left of my eland, but on. my way I saw an old bull buffalo making away for some thick bush, quickened my pace, and he crossed me into a kloof ; I jumped off and shot at him, as he appeared broadside out of the kloof, and fancied I broke his fore leg. As he went away very lame I gave chase, and came up with him standing under a tree. I was edging off a little to get a good broadside at him, when he charged so suddenly and fiercely, and so fast, that Billy whipped round like a shot, and dashed off at full speed through the trees, sending my gun spinning yards away out of my hand, and a strong branch, catching me across the breast, all but unhorsed me. The enraged brute was for 200 yards within two feet of Billy’s tail, and continued the chase for 400 yards. After recovering my gun I followed him into a thick bush and gave him a shot, when he again charged, but fearing to come out of the bush again, retreated, and I lost sight of him. On riding round I saw him again, and he forthwith gave chase, but being on the open, I was all right this time. I therefore
44
AFRICAN HUNTING.
allowed him to come close up, but as he would persist in facing me, I was reluctant to spend my last bullet, and it was long ere I got a shot to my liking. At last, however, he gave me a broadside, and I gave him a settler. He was certainly the savagest old monster I ever had the pleasure of seeing.
I had to return to camp seven or eight miles in a woful plight, minus my hat, and my shirt torn to ribbons, exposed to a fearful hot sun, and my whole body blistered and sunburnt, giving me great pain, and my throat and tongue parched up for want of water. I was well greased with eland fat from head to foot, which was a great relief to me, but for several days I coidd rest in no position from the frightful extent of the sun-burns, than which I know nothing more painful, as every atom of skin peels off. I found my eland nearly eaten up, but I brought his horns back as a trophy.
16th. — Went out on foot, as Billy had had two hard days in succession. I saw a buffalo canter away, and then stop in a thick bush. I followed, got a shot, and heard the bullet tell. He was a long way off, and going at full speed. I had another shot without effect, followed on, and next saw him lying at full length. I spoke to the Kaffirs, when the beast immediately jumped up and faced us. The Kaffirs disappeared like smoke. I gave him a shot meant for the breast, but it struck him in the neck and he at once charged. Fortunately, Crafty was between us, and he made a
A KAFFIR HUNT.
45
furious onset on her, which gave me time to load again and change my position. The poor brute was evidently severely wounded, and again lay down. I had two more shots at him, but he was so tough that it was not before the fifth shot that he was dead, and then the Kaffirs reappeared.
17th.—' Clifton lent me a horse, and I rode over to see the other party, having heard that they were at a kraal only a few miles off. Edmonstone had been at a great Kaffir hunt, at which all the natives far and near turned out. They were delighted with their sport. One Kaffir, however, got a bullet through his foot, and as Edmonstone got the credit of it, he was obliged to give a cotton blanket worth 3s. by way of com¬ pensation. I returned the next day in time for four days of regular deluge, which we spent inside the tent, killing time as best we could with books, &c. I waded entirely through the 4 Soldier of Fortune.’
23rd. — Breakfasted on chocolate and dry bread, having eaten all our fresh meat during the four days’ rain. As the larder was empty we sallied out and had a hard day’s work over a great extent of country, returning home well laden, long after sunset, having bagged two cow-buffaloes and a bush-pig.
26th. — Fifteen Zulus came down to our camp to¬ day, and I turned out to shoot them some meat. We travelled a long way without seeing anything, but my perseverance was at length rewarded by the sight of a troop of buffaloes a long way off. We executed a very scientific stalk, and I bowled over a young,
46
AFRICAN HUNTING.
tolerably fat bull. We lighted a fire and demolished a good part of him on the spot, the Kaffirs eating alternately a lump of roasted flesh and an equal quantity of the inside raw.
27 tli. — Pouring rain all day. As the wolves plagued us much, we set a gun at night and shot an old dog- wolf through the head.
29 th. — We were waked up suddenly by hearing one of the oxen bellowing and the dogs barking. It was moderately dark, and I seized Clifton’s double rifle and rushed out, not knowing where, when I saw the driver perched on the top of a temporary hut, made of grass, about six feet high, roaring lustily for a doppe (cap). I scrambled up just as the poor ox ceased his cries, and heard the lions growling and roaring on the top of him, not more than fourteen yards from where we were, but it was too dark to see them. I fired, however, in the direction of the sound, and just above the body of the ox, which I could distinguish tolerably well, as it was a black one. Diza (the driver) followed my example, and as the lions did not take the least notice, I fired my second barrel, and was just proceeding to load my own gun, which Jack had brought me, when I was aware for a single instant only that the lion was coming, and the same moment I was knocked half a dozen somer¬ saults backwards off the hut, the brute striking me in the chest with his head. I gathered myself up in a second and made a dash at a fence just behind me, and scrambled through it, gun in hand, but the
VISIT OF LIONS.
47
muzzle was choked with dirt. I then made for the wagon, and got on the box, where I found all the Kaffirs, who could not get inside, sticking like mon¬ keys, and Diza perched on the top. How he got there seemed to me a miracle, as he was alongside me when the brute charged. A minute or two after¬ wards, one of them marched off a goat, one of five
that were tethered by the foot to the hut which we had so speedily evacuated.
Diza, thinking he had a chance, fired from the top of the wagon, and the recoil knocked him backwards on to the tent, which broke his fall. It was a most ludicrous sight altogether.
48
AFRICAN HUNTING.
After that we were utterly defeated, and the brutes were allowed to eat their meal unmolested, which they continued to do for some time, growling fiercely all the while. The Kaffirs said there were five in all. I fired once again, but without effect ; and we all sat shivering with cold, without any clothes on, till near day-break, wdien our enemies beat a retreat, and I was not sorry to turn in again between the blankets. I was just beginning to get warm again when I was aroused by a double shot, and rushed out on hearing that the driver and after-rider had shot the lion. We went to the spot and found a fine lioness dead, with a bullet through the ribs from the after-rider ; a good shot, as she was at least 150 yards off. Another had entered the neck, just behind the head, and travelled all along the spine nearly to the root of the tail. I claimed that shot, and forthwith proceeded to skin her. I cut out the ball : it proved to be my shot out of Clifton’s rifle ; this accounted for her ferocious onslaught. The after-rider was rather chopfallen at having to give her up to the rightful owner.
Diza got a claw in his thigh, and the gun which he had in his hand was frightfully scratched on the stock : rather sharp practice. A strong-nerved old Kaffir woman lay in the hut the whole time, without a door or anything whatever between her and the lions, and kept as still as a mouse all the while.
30 tii. — Hearing that White was back again at the Kaffir chief Umbop’s, Clifton and I rode off to see the party, some twelve miles off. Clifton gave
LIONS AGAIN.
49
me a mount on Arab, and we found them well, with the exception of Maclean. Their affairs looked rather badly on the whole : eight oxen had died, several more were very ill, two dogs had been carried off by tigers, there was no game, and con¬ sequently not much to eat, and they were out of coffee and sugar. We got six blankets, some brass wire, and black calico, and returned to camp.
I had the remains of the ox dragged to the best spot for getting a shot, if the lions should pay us another visit. They did not keep us waiting long. In less than an hour after dark they came, and immediately began their meal. The night was very dark, and we had nothing but their own growls to guide us in shooting. We three blazed away in succession for a long time. The ox was placed just in front of the wagon, about twenty-five yards off, but they dragged it away considerably farther. Crafty must have had some narrow escapes, for she would not come in, but kept up an incessant row all the time ; and, encouraged by the firing, came to very close quarters with them several times. They charged her frequently and savagely, but she showed great pluck. I saw one lion tolerably distinctly once, and fired, when for the first time he uttered a fierce roar, and charged at the wagon. We had, however, a strong fence between the wagon and them, and when the lion lay down about seven yards off for a long time, I felt sure he was wounded. He
50
AFRICAN HUNTING.
made off soon afterwards, and I turned in before they all took their departure.
October 1st.- — Went up to see our last night’s work. It was evident that one or more had been severely wounded, but we endeavoured in vain to trace them. I turned out with my two dogs and one Kaffir, Jacob. I was obliged to offer him a rewards of 5s. before he would consent to accompany me. We gave the dogs the wind, and hunted down the nearest kloof. I had not got 400 yards from the wagon when I saw that Hopeful winded something, but neither growled nor barked, in spite of all the encouragement I gave him. He was very near the kloof, and came away. At length I mustered courage to go down, and, proceeding a short distance, saw an old lion dead, at the bottom. A large bullet had gone right through his middle, and I was in high spirits at my success.
As I was occupied in skinning the lion, I heard three double shots in succession, and rushed out, gun in hand, expecting a couple of lions at least, when I found Clifton standing over one of the oxen, just breathing its last. The lions the night before had driven it mad, and he had been obliged to shoot it. We had now onlv ten oxen left, and one so ill that it could hardly travel. However, on the evening of the 2nd, we reached some Kaffir kraals, and the lions again favoured us with their company. On awaking I looked out of the tent, thinking it was a wolf, and that I might get a shot, when I saw one
CROSS THE UMYELOOSE.
51
lion distinctly, and Hopeful and Crafty barking at him furiously. He at length charged against the side of the tent, unpegging two of the ropes ; so we struck a light, and kept a candle burning till the morning. He gave us one fine chance of shooting him, but Clifton had given strict orders that no one must fire, lest the lion should come into the tent.
5 th. — Outspanned within a mile and a half of the Umveloose.
Oth. — Jack and I started before daylight, to try and bag a wild goose or two, as there are plenty of them about the Umveloose, but we had to return to our quarters with two brace of quail and a blue heron. I had several long shots at geese, but they require a heavy dose to bring them down. We got back to a splendid breakfast of quail, beautifully cooked by Leggins, while the rest were inspanning. I followed them shortly on my pony, my Kaffirs carrying the kettle, saucepans, dishes, and condi¬ ments, and overtaking the wagon at the drift, which we crossed in good style, though not without diffi¬ culty, as the river was four feet deep, and the sand heavy. Seeing two wagons, we outspanned at a kraal just before sunset, and drew up alongside. Clifton purchased three oxen from a Zulu trader, and we passed a jolly evening together, hearing all the news ; among the rest, that England and France were positively at war with Russia.
10 th. — Clifton and I laboured hard to get a black goose, but there was no getting a shot. I was
52
AFRICAN HUNTING.
up to my waist in water half the day. One ox knocked up, and was left behind.
1 1th. — Sent two Kaffirs for the ox, which was unable to rise, so they had to leave him. My dog Hopeful also was missing, probably taken by a tiger. Jack and I hunted all round, but could find no trace of him. There was no doubt, however, as to his fate. I had heard Crafty barking furiously in the night, but hearing wolves also, I thought it was they. All hands turned out to hunt the horses, which had strayed, but we soon recovered them.
12 th. — We reached the Missionary Station, but found that the missionary himself had been sent for by Umbop, a Kaffir chief, to poison lions ninety or a hundred miles off. His good lady was at home, but we could make nothing of her. She was a Norwegian, and had not the slightest smattering of any other language. Clifton, after trying English and Kaffir in vain, returned to the charge with French, but to no purpose, so we had to give her up.
12^A.- — Outspanned four miles beyond the Umve- loose. I tried to get a klip-springer among the rocks, but returned unsuccessful, having seen only three. I saw lots of baboons. Mosquitoes for the first time bit and plagued me a good deal in the night. Sent a Kaffir to the bay for letters and news.
lhth\ — Having been told of a herd of elands, we saddled and went in pursuit, but it came on very wet, and we made for a kraal, without seeing them. The
BEES -NESTING.
53
wagon appeared shortly after, and we outspanned a mile from the Inyesan. I cut the head of a koran clean off with a bullet, and found it in the long grass some seven yards from his body.
17 th. — Turned out on Billy to look for a buffalo, and came on a herd of about fifteen, which made off at full speed a long way ahead of me. Billy soon overtook them, and I singled out an old bull, and gave him a bullet just as he dashed into the bush near the Inyesan. The herd crossed the river, and appeared on the other side ; and I had great diffi¬ culty in following them. Eventually I killed a toler¬ ably fat cow, and my Kaffirs told me they had seen the old bull go away with a broken leg. I also shot a pig, after a sharp burst, Crafty bringing him to bay. We brought home as much as three Kaffirs and a pony could carry.
1 %th — To-day I gave Billy a rest, and turned out with a half-bred cur to shoot quail ; got three brace, as well as a partridge. A honeybird met us, and called us vigorously. We followed, and he took us to a bees’ nest, but, owing to the incessant rains, there was but little honey in it. There was, however, a good deal of fun and excitement in following the little fellow.
19 th. — Went out in quest of elands, Clifton, his after¬ rider, and myself, taking different roads. After a long ride, just as I had ascended a very high hill, I saw a large herd, but could not make them out till they began to move. The wind and ground were both
54
AFRICAN HUNTING.
in my favour, and, after some hard work, I came within about 600 yards of them. They were very wild and shy, having been much shot at lately, and they had taken alarm at three Kaffirs who came along the road, and they were taking themselves off rapidly.
Crafty dashed into the herd and brought out a cow straight across a heavy bog. I was luckily on the right side, so I galloped off as fast as I could, and, after a long burst, got within fifty yards of her. Kow or never, thought I, as she went like the wind. I jumped off, fired and missed her. Away she went at a swinging trot. I looked at my pony : he was ready for another burst, and I took up the spoor of the rest of the troop. I soon came upon them cross¬ ing a bog, and making in my direction. I managed to get Billy over the bog with great difficulty, gave him a minute to recover his wind, mounted, and, as I had saved half a mile, I was on the middle of the troop instantly. I shortly drove the old bull from the troop, and made play. In consequence of the heavy state of the ground and the distance I had come, Billy was labouring hard under me, and, I fancied, rather losing ground. I thought exhausted nature could hold out no longer, so I pulled up within fifty yards of my bull, but I was so shaken that I again missed. Before I had reloaded, however, Billy had recovered himself, and fretted so much to be off that I had difficulty in ramming my bullet home ; and he was again galloping at a break-neck
ELAxND BULL.
55
pace before I was fairly in the saddle. The bull was some quarter of a mile ahead, going at a steady trot, with Crafty at his heels.
I gradually made up the lost ground, saving and nursing my pony to the utmost, and had been riding a long way within fifty yards of him, utterly unable to get an inch nearer, when I saw Clifton and his after-rider meeting him. Clifton turned out of the way, to let me have the whole honour to myself. The bull rushed broadside past him within twenty yards, a sore temptation for a man with a double-barrelled Westley Bichards in his hand ; but he allowed the bull to pass him unmolested. Billy, on seeing the other horses, made a last spurt and ran right up to the bull, horse and mail doing all that nature could. The brute strained every nerve to reach the river, which was within one hundred yards of him, but it was not to be. I jumped off and bowled him over, giving him the ball through his tail, high up and right into his lungs, and he fell dead in a few yards ; Billy and I ran down like a mill-stream. I took off saddle and bridle, and the pony was himself again in no time. My prize was a noble brute ; his skin measured ten feet, cut off at the neck. The Kaffirs came up in about an hour, and we skinned him. He was in first-rate order, and I returned to camp, after having cut him up and taken out his fat, with the breast across my saddle. The Kaffirs lighted a fire, and stayed there all night feasting.
56
AFRICAN HUNTING.
21 st. — After a splendid breakfast of marrow-bones and buffalo tongues, I went out again, my Kaffir leading Billy. I was determined not to mount, un¬ less I saw elands or buffaloes. I took my blanket, as I intended to stay out all night. After about three hours’ walk, I saw a large herd of elands, and got unperceived within 500 yards of them. I did not mount till the last moment, when away I went at the top of Billy’s speed. I was soon in the middle of the troop, and singled out the largest bull. Crafty and Billy stuck to him like leeches. He bounded and tore away, and made every effort to regain the troop, but in vain, so he rushed down hill for the Matakoola river. I stopped Billy at the edge of the river among the reeds, and, just as my bull appeared on the opposite bank, I shot him dead through the heart. I had just loaded, and was in the act of capping, when two cows rushed frantically by me and up the opposite bank. I was just in time to stop the hindermost, shooting her through the tail and heart ; I found her dead within 100 yards from where I struck her. A moment after, two of Walmsley’s Hottentots came tearing up on horseback, just in time to be too late, and have the satisfaction of seeing the elands a mile ahead, on the farther side of the Matakoola. We cut off the tails of the two I had killed as trophies, and took the fat and some of the best of the meat, and hid it under some stones, carrying with us the breast of one, and four marrow-bones, and made our way towards the
COMFORTS OF AFRICA.
57
Matakoola mouth, to try for a sea-cow. It was nearly dark before we arrived. We saw a lot of sea-cows, but they were very shy. I struck two, and think I killed one, but there was no sign of him in the morning, and if he was really dead he must have drifted some distance down the river.
It rained incessantly the whole night, and we were miserably uncomfortable, as we had no shelter whatever, but lay smoking and steaming, and got up as stiff as biscuits the next morning, without a dry rag to put on, some fourteen miles from camp, and the grass in many places up to the waist, and of course soaking wet. To complete the delights of African shooting, it was so murky and foggy that I never could have found my way back alone ; but the Kaffirs have a wonderful instinct that way. On reaching the camp, I got a cup of hot coffee and dry clothes, and was soon all right, but sustained a grievous disappointment at receiving no letters from home ; the Kaffir we despatched having returned from the bay bringing word that there were none for me, though three mails at least must have arrived.
White and the rest of the party got so far back again all well, but they had had no sport. I rode over to see them in the afternoon, and spent a very pleasant couple of hours with them. I got a sack of mealies for my unhappy pony, which greatly re¬ joiced me.
23 rd. — White and his party treked on, intending
58
AFRICAN HUNTING.
to cross the Tugela as soon as practicable, and get into the bay, as they were nearly out of the common necessaries of life.
21th. — Met George Shadwell and his party re¬ turning, who said they had killed no less than 150 sea-cows and 91 elephants ; a most splendid hunt, two parties, and a whole posse of guns. We even¬ tually reached our different destinations all right, and separated in Durban, many of us never to meet again.
This will serve to give the reader some idea of the sort of life led in a hunting expedition. It is miserable enough at times, but altogether it is a roving, careless, wandering life, that has charms for me. We do just as we like, and wear what is most convenient. When on foot, a blue and white shirt and a stout pair of gaiters, with the addition of a cap and shoes, are all that I burden my body with.
59
CHAPTER III.
1854.
HUNTING EXPEDITION INTO THE AMATONGA COUNTRY.
April 10 tli. — Left Natal Bay, and, having only just returned from a trip over the Drakensberg Mountains buying horses, 1 rode round by the Inanda to get a small outfit of shirts, &c., and found the sole occupants of the place one solitary young cock, which fled at my approach, and a wonderful pig, which always keeps himself in good condition, defends himself against all the attacks of wild animals, and has a strong attachment to the place, where he was brought a suckling. I met White by appointment, and was agreeably surprised at seeing Harris on the box of Proudfoot’s wagon. He and Maxwell were setting out for a couple of months’ shooting. Rode on to the Nonoti, where I remained two days, and, not knowing what to do, had a great washing; of clothes at the river.
15 th. — Started off again on horseback, with three Kaffirs, across the Tugela, intending to stay a few days with Edmonstone’s party, who, I heard, were waiting for us at the Matakoola river, about twenty-
60
AFRICAN HUNTING.
four miles ahead. I spent the night at a friend’s encampment, and rode the next day across as rough and bushy a country as can well be imagined. Missing my way, I was obliged to sleep in a Kaffir kraal. At sunrise I was again in the saddle, and with some difficulty found the encampment, but my friends had gone. Disappointed of my expected meal, I had to look out for myself. I came across the morning spoor of two buffaloes, and followed them into the reeds, but they broke cover and got away unseen. Uncommonly hungry, I caught sight of three elands a long way off, and gave chase with¬ out the remotest hope of coming up with them, as they had a long start, and my horse, Justice, was wretchedly poor. Mile after mile, however, he just managed to hold his ground, the elands trotting on at their leisure. Twice I tried to make a spurt, but Justice had but one pace. Just, however, as I had surmounted a hill, having with some difficulty made the horse gallop, I came on a troop of about thirty elands. I jumped off and fired at a long distance, and broke the hind leg of a. young bull, who immediately separated from the herd, and lay down on a clump of grass. I finished him with a bullet in his breast. I slept out that night, after a heavy feed on the eland, of which the Kaffirs reserved for my special benefit the tongue and a marrow¬ bone.
W e came across a troop of about thirty elands the following day, and tried to stalk them, a Kaffir
CROSS THE INYESAN.
61
leading the horse beside me. They made off, how¬ ever, a long way, and I fired without effect. I then endeavoured to mount and give chase, but could not, for my life, get the bridle over the head of the horse, who was backing, plunging, and rearing frightfully, and I had the mortification to see the herd going far away, hotly pursued by Venture and Fly, two dogs I bought over the Berg, who suc¬ ceeded in turning a fine cow out of the herd, and baiting her well ; but I could do nothing with Justice, he was the veriest brute in the world. I pocketed my disgust as well as I could, and rode leisurely to some kraals, to await the arrival of the wagons, my bullets being exhausted. The Kaffirs turned up shortly, bringing loads of meat, and having lost Dusty, the last remaining one of the breed of Scotch deer-hounds I brought out with me.
On our return from an unsuccessful buffalo hunt, on the 22nd, we found Proudfoot and Maxwell - arrived. We had a jolly afternoon, with a little target practice and athletic feats, and finished up the evening with singing.
23rd. — Treked on a few miles across the country over the Inyesan. We saw through the telescope a troop of about one hundred elands, which we reserved for Monday’s sport. We had a most exciting run with the dogs after a bush pig, my dog Venture running gallantly, turning, and, eventually, with the help of the others, killing him. A better
62
AFRICAN HUNTING.
and richer sample of well-fed pork could not be con¬ ceived. We salted him down for future use.
24 th. — All turned out after the elands, four horses, and the rest on foot ; but we only bagged one young cow amongst the whole party. Two or three more, badly wounded, fell into the hands of the Kaffirs. On our return we found the horse 4 Sweep ’ dead, and were kept awake most of the night by the laughing hyenas and dogs fighting over him.
25 th. — Moved our quarters a few miles. We found a very nice fruit, called by the Kaffirs ama- bouche, resembling a mangrove in flavour, very luscious and good. Hunted the strand bush unsuc¬ cessfully, bathed in the sea, but had to beware of the ground sharks. Played whist until a late hour, finished the grog, and wound up by a soaking wet night (from the heavens, I mean).
2 §th. — As I foresaw a continuance' of rain, I set about making a pair of felt shoes, which were to be unrivalled for skill and neatness of workmanship, but the soles took so long softening, that we were unable to finish them. The rest of the party killed time by draughts, books, and bullet-casting, and wound up with whist, as usual.
27 th. — After a sumptuous breakfast on cold pig, three of us and an after-rider started in quest of elands. On the way, Venture ran a tiger-cat to bay in a tree. I shook and stoned him out, and the dogs, after a short, quick burst, worried him in good style. I dragged him to the wagon-road and rode
PURSUIT OP 4 JUSTICE.’
63
after Proudfoot and Maxwell, who had gone forward. We soon came across two eland cows, dismounted, and fired together at about 200 yards, hitting one hard ; the other was a very long shot with the second barrel of Harris’s Westley Bichards’ rifle. The dogs went away in gallant style, and soon brought them to bay. I was the first to come up with them, on Justice, but could not pull up to shoot. Proudfoot dismounted and knocked over the last with a ball in the neck, firing past me. I gave chase to the other, tumbled off and hit her, but she went away, and Justice also. When I had reloaded, I saw Proudfoot’s eland coming up, but did not like to shoot. I threw away my chance till too late, and then missed her. She fell dead, however, shortly after, without another shot.
After having succeeded in catching Justice, by driving him up to the other three horses, we saw a troop of one hundred elands in the distance, and watched their movements for a full hour. As the wind was right against us, we eventually came up with the last of the troop, going away far ahead, having got wind of us. We gave chase: I succeeded in overtaking them, and they turned suddenly, and came in single file past me, within fifty yards. We were a long way from camp, and I knew that if I let. go of the bridle I must tramp home. I there¬ fore pulled the bridle over Justice’s head and through my arm, and three times the brute pulled back, and jerked the gun from my shoulder. I fired
64
AFRICAN HUNTING.
at last, and missed. Prondfoot did tlie same, and liis horse, Blesbok; went off at score, and followed the spoor as accurately as any dog. We got back to the eland just before sunset, and soon stripped her of her skin. The wagon coming up soon after, we quartered her, stuffed her in, and returned to camp.
2 8th. — White, Harris, and I, hearing that a sea- cow had been seen the day before in a large vley, just below the wagons, went in pursuit, but the cow had decamped, so we returned to the wagons, and I finished my shoes — a first-rate pair.
The next day we went in pursuit of elands, but were unsuccessful ; we therefore treked on a few miles to some new grass near the Umlilas, and had to go supperless to bed.
oOth [Sunday). — A gloomy, wet day. Pound it hard to kill time. At noon, we succeeded in getting the kettle to boil, and had a cup of coffee. Pound my ink upset, though luckily without doing much damage. Harris and I rather in a strait, our Kaffirs having bolted.
May 1st — A repetition of yesterday. The tent leaked like a sieve, and Harris and I were as miser¬ able as can be imagined. We cut a drain round the tent, which greatly improved matters. To add to our discomforts, we were short of fire-wood. Our Kaffirs had bolted to the kraals, having been unable to face the inclemency of the weather any longer.
2nd. — Still raining, but with a hope of improve¬ ment. Justice was nowhere to be found. Maxwell
‘ JUSTICE ’ IN DIFFICULTIES.
65
at last sighted him with a telescope some three miles off. Steele and I went after him, and found him as nearly as possible strangled to death with his halter, his head and face swollen enormously, and fearfully thin, having evidently gone without food for two days, and perishing with cold and rain. Yet, even when reduced to this strait, the brute refused to be caught, and though so weak that he fell twice, and staggered all the way like a drunken man, he went headlong into a river ; fortunately, however, he succeeded in making the opposite bank. At length I drove him into a kraal, and caught him. At sunset I came up with the wagons, which had treked on four or five miles to better grass, wood, and water.
4 th. — Having seen the spoor of sea-cows, White, Proudfoot, and Harris went down, taking the tent and some food, to try and shoot one by moonlight. Isaac severely wounded a cow, which, however, made her escape to the river. I did not go, having no Kaffir to carry my blankets.
After a day employed in re-soling shoes and super¬ intending the dyeing of shirts and trowsers, we had a long tramp on the 6 th after reed-bucks, with but moderate success. Nothing to eat at the wagons, except a steinbok, which did not go far amongst so large a party.
1th. — Steele and I started early with four Kaffirs to bring home a ram I had shot. It was a very large one, and I had cleaned and stuffed it with
F
66
AFRICAN HUNTING.
grass and hidden it, leaving Fly to guard it from wolves. After breakfasting sumptuously on broiled kidneys, steaks, and mushrooms, which we luckily found near, we loaded the Kaffirs and returned to camp.
8th. — White and Harris left us. Proudfoot,' Maxwell, and I, accompanied by a host of Kaffirs, turned out in downright earnest for buffaloes or elands, without breakfast, as there was not a morsel of anything in camp. Proudfoot shot a cow buffalo, and Isaac an old bull. I purchased a dozen pounds of beads from Surtees, and joined White’s wagon in the evening, wishing Proudfoot and party good- bye.
Seeing four elands coming down a kloof, straight upon us, we dismounted in all haste and crawled to the edge of the kloof, leaving our horses below the hill, out of sight. I ought to have known better than to place such confidence in Justice. I spent the most miserable day I ever recollect, chasing my horse through the most frightful tangled grass and brushwood, up to my armpits, and in many places over my head, through kloofs and valleys. This was at the base of the Umgowie Mountains. It was an hour after sunset before I caught Justice, and when I succeeded in reaching the wagons I was tho¬ roughly fagged. One more such day would have driven me mad. A cup of coffee, however, and a delicious supper of buffalo kidneys, somewhat re¬ stored my spirits and temper.
PANDA ON FEED TRADE.
67
9 th. — A day of feasting on tongues, marrow¬ bones, and all the delicacies of the two buffaloes.
10 t7i. — Harris rejoined us, and we treked on a few miles to a small river, called by the Kaffirs Inku- kusa, where we had a delightful bathe. We remained here two days, hunting up the river one day, and down the next ; but none of the party burnt powder either day, so we treked on in the afternoon a short distance, to the Umslatoose. We met two traders, who were returning, in consequence of Panda having entirely stopped the trading. He has made the penalty for disobedience to orders certain death, and has commenced by killing about thirty men, and all their wives, children, and relatives. This had so terrified the rest, that no one would come near a trader’s wagon. All traders are ordered out of the country, and the reason which Panda alleges for this is that his heart is sore, owing to the sudden death, by dysentery, of two of his chief captains.
13th. — Turned out fully determined to bag some¬ thing, as an old tough bull-buffalo was all that we had in camp, and he was fast diminishing, under the united powers of half a dozen dogs and as many Kaffirs, and four white men. No one can have an idea of the appetite of the Kaffirs, without actual experience. We had a hard day’s work, and never fired a shot.
White and Harris overhauled the stores in the wagon, and found the rice nearly musty, owing to
G8
AFKICAN HUNTING.
the wet, and the coffee and sugar almost exhausted. It was therefore resolved that Harris should return to the bay with the wagon, for a fresh supply of provisions and a little lead, and to procure Kaffirs for himself and me, as it would have been madness to go into the country so badly provided as we were then. White and I were in the meantime to go to the Umgowie Mountains for shooting, and were to spend the next three weeks under canvas. We crossed the Umslatoose the next day, and the day after we un¬ loaded the wagon, stowed everything away in the tent, and Harris and the driver started early for the bay.
On the 17th, after a soaking wet night — our tent leaking like a sieve, until the canvas swelled with the rain — we turned out to hunt, with our usual bad luck. On our return, we found my Kaffir, whom I had hired a few days before, and to whom I had given the name of Goat, had run away. I got a pound of powder from Mr. Newton, whose wife made us a very welcome present of a few candles and needles. We lived for three days on a most recommendable stew, composed of two sorts of buck, and wild pig (cured), rice, and pumpkins, which appeared, warmed up fresh, at every meal. Our eatables were hung upon a sort of gallows, erected just before the tent, out of the reach of our five hungry dogs.
A few days after, the said dogs, taking advantage of my being absent from the tent for a few minutes
SHORT COMMONS.
69
to superintend the baking of some bread, walked off with a cold goose and a pot of amas — the whole of our larder, with the exception of two pieces of salt pig. On my return one day, after an unsuccessful hunt, I was delighted to find that White had suc¬ ceeded in buying a goat from the Kaffirs, for four ostrich feathers.
21 st (Sunday). — Not going out anywhere, I took the opportunity of putting my three guns into killing order, considering it no worse to employ myself use¬ fully than to pass the time loitering about, whistling, &c., to kill time.
We remained in the same place a fortnight longer, chiefly occupied in cutting out felt shoes, dyeing clothes, and casting bullets, and making other pre¬ parations for our hunting expedition on the return of the wagons. The weather was cold and wet, game exceedingly scarce, and provisions in camp, conse¬ quently, very short. We were reduced at last to water porridge, rice and pumpkins, with a few occa¬ sional ducks and pigeons.
30 th, — Killed three snakes out of a rotten tree, all different kinds of tree-snakes. They all came out of the same hole, while I was cutting out two bullets.
Had some exciting sport with sea-cows in a narrow river, with very high reeds on both banks. To get a shot, I was obliged to climb the trees over¬ hanging the river, and had one or two good chances, but the villainous black ants fell upon me vigorously,
70
AFRICAN HUNTING.
and in such countless multitudes, biting so severely, that flesh and blood could not possibly hold out another second. I was forced to descend ; and an old sea-cow I had been dodging for two hours is indebted to the black ants for her life.
The night before the arrival of the wagons, we went down with our blankets, in the hope of getting a shot at a sea-cow by moonlight ; but the moon set before we met with them, and we had to take to our blankets in the long wet grass, without the satisfac¬ tion of having secured one.
June 5.— The crack of a whip announced the approach of our long-expected wagon, which had been detained by the river being swollen. Two others came with it, but they brought no letters from the bay, as there had been no mail for two months. Two more wagons joined us the next day, so we celebrated the occasion by setting to work to pre¬ pare a first-rate dinner of three courses, for ten, consisting of some buck and buffalo soup ; stewed buck and sea-cow, seasoned with lots of onions, pep¬ per, &c. ; three sorts of vegetables ; and a roast of wild ducks, pigeons, and dikkops. Barter had en¬ gaged to provide a dish of fish, but at the second bite he lost all his tackle, and came home dis¬ comfited, with one small barbel. Dinner was fol¬ lowed by a bowl of gin punch, with lemons and all other requisites, made in the washing-basin. Three rubbers of whist, and lots of capital songs, finished up the evening.
AT THE UMSIXDOOSIE.
71
1th. — All got under weigh, and in about a mile and a half went on our separate ways, two wagons going back to the bay, two to the King’s trading, and our own party over the Pongola. Maxwell gave us a good lump of cheese — a great treat in these parts.
Sth. — On my return to the wagon, I found some of the party gone up to a kraal to shoot a Kaffir who had threatened to assagai one of Walmsley’s Kaffirs, in order to obtain possession of a string of Makanda beads which he wore round his neck. They found, however, that the Kaffirs had decamped in great haste.
ll^A. — Commenced by shooting my dog Venture, who had lately taken a sulky turn, and would not follow me a yard. Afterwards, I bagged one peau (bustard) and four snipes, and on my return I found White complaining of illness.
12th. — Outspanned at the river Umsindoosie, and as White had made up his mind to return, we un¬ loaded the wagon, and each took our share of provi¬ sions, and parted company.
13th. — Francis kindly lent me his old horse, and I and my Kaffir set out, and, after two good soakings, took up my quarters in a kraal, where I found Maclean. We dined together on amas, followed by roast guinea-fowls, in a wretched hut, containing ten Kaffirs, two of whom we employed to hold lighted grass, that we might see to eat. As soon as one straw was nearly consumed, they lighted another by
72
AFRICAN HUNTING.
it, so as to keep up a continual light. Each straw burned about a minute.
On the 14th, I came on to the Umveloose. I made up my mind to leave two-thirds of my provisions behind, and go into the country with as little as possible. With this view, I converted an old pair of breeches into bags. These, and half a towel which I spared for the purpose, contained my sugar, coffee, tea, bullets, beads, red kalis, &c. Maclean went off in the afternoon, and I was again left alone.
I was anxious to be off the next day, but as I did not know the way, I was obliged to wait for a friend’s wagon. I much feared that my Kaffir would run away, as the Zulus, from some cause or other, had killed all his relations, and he expected that they wished to make an end of him also. His alarm was not unreasonable, as his sister had been impaled only two days before.
With a small frying-pan, which I bought for a few beads from a Kaffir, who did not know its use, a tin cup and plate, pocket-knife and wooden spoon, I managed cooking and feeding pretty well. But the nights of fourteen hours, without books, lights, or anything whatever to do, were indescribably tedious, and the horrid noise which the Kaffirs made, and call singing, only made matters worse.
Ylth. — Up for once in my life before the Kaffirs, about an hour and a half before sunrise. After a long, tough job in removing the barricade, which is made at the gate to keep out wild beasts, I got out
A HINT FOR DOCTORS.
73
and shot a splendid golden goose, as it was feeding on the mealies within one hundred yards of the kraal. As it is always very cold before the sun rises I turned in again, but was roused by the cries of a child evidently in pain, and was thereupon witness to a new fashion of administering a warm bath. A child of about ten years old was being held down to the ground, while the doctor, with the sole of his foot previously heated on an earthenware pot just off the fire and turned upside down, was pressing the body of the child all over and rubbing it up and down the back, causing it, no doubt, very great pain. The Kaffirs have no feeling in the soles of their feet, the skin being like the hoof of a cow, and fully half an inch thick.
While staying at the kraal, I killed the finest specimen of the eagle tribe I ever saw, and regretted much that I had no arsenical soap to preserve the skin. I saw a great commotion among a troop of guinea fowls across the river, and presently this fellow rose, so gorged that he could only just rise, feathered to the toes with beautiful black and white plumage, and talons fearful to look upon.
The next day I left my goods and chattels in charge of the Nkozi Kazi (the chiefs principal wife) at the Black Umveloose, and followed the wagon- track to the Inyelas, about fifteen miles a head, and once again took up my quarters in a kraal.
22nd. — By dint of great persuasion and a promise of thirty strings of Umgazi beads, I got a Zulu to
74
AFRICAN HUNTING.
come with me to the Amatonga land, to carry bullets, powder, and other things, . as a friend of mine re¬ claimed a horse which he had lent me, one of his Kaffirs having run away to the bay.
23rd. — As the party I had been waiting for again delayed their starting, I determined not to be delayed another hour ; and, although I did not know an inch of the way, or anything else, I started with two Kaffirs and Fly. Everyone assured me that I should lose my¬ self, but I got on very well over flat country on a good sandy foot-path. A good half of the way I walked bare-footed. I saw wildebeests, quaggas, koodoos, and waterbuck. At sunset I camped out about four miles after crossing the river St. Luey, kindled a large fire, roasted a koran, made some tea, and turned in. It was a bitter night, with a high wind, and I took pity on my Kaffirs and gave them half my blanket, which was a double one. They lay curled up like a ball of worsted at my feet, one of them turning out from time to time to heap fuel on the fire. During the night I heard lions and wolves, but they did not molest us.
2ith. — We started early, and had made about twelve miles, when we were overtaken by six or eight Zulus, who begged me to shoot a wildebeest for them, as they were nearly starving. I had an early opportunity of complying with their request, and they lost not an instant in lighting a fire, flaying and cutting up the animal. After a moderate feed they went off with their prize, all staggering under very
A HINT FOR COOKS.
75
heavy loads of beef. The paunch they converted into a bag, and scooped up the whole of the clotted blood from the inside of the animal, which had been shot through the lungs, filled the bag with the most nau¬ seous mess you can imagine, fastened up the mouth with two sticks crossed rather ingeniously, and at the first Amatonga kraals took possession of a pot, and boiled bag and all the contents for a glorious repast.
I preferred a mess of Inyouti porridge, a new seed to me, small and not unlike millet, to supping with my morning’s friends, and found it very nice, but I greatly missed the new milk so abundant in the Zulu land. The Amatongas have no cattle, lest the possession of them should excite the cupidity of their warlike neighbours, who would soon exterminate the more timid Amatongas.
After about seven hours’ sharpish walking through a very thick scrubby country, and apparently very poor land, we came out into a clearance and saw cultivated grounds, the first Amatonga kraals I had ever met with. They much resemble the Zulu huts, but have larger door-ways ; and as the Amatongas have no cattle, there are no fences round their kraals, which are dotted about much more irregularly than those of the Zulus. There was nothing but dense bush and large timber to be seen in any direction.
I was hospitably received by the captain, who allotted me a hut to sleep in. At supper I had the most delicious Bashoo nuts I ever ate. They were roasted in the embers of the fire, and taste exactly
76
AFRICAN HUNTING.
like filberts. They grow in pairs in a large husk. The Amatongas’ cuisine is decidedly superior to that of the Zulus, but the traveller will nowhere find in their country the rich amas, which is to be had amongst the Zulus.
2hth.— Hearing from the Kaffirs that there were inyala in the bush, I sallied out, but without success, until nearly sunset, when, as I was returning home, the Amatongas showed me two inyalas feeding — the first I had ever seen. I succeeded in bagging the stag, a most beautiful dark silver grey buck, with long mane and very long hair like a goat. He is of the bush buck species, but on a much larger scale than the inconka of the colony, with long spiral horns, tanned legs, very long hair on his breast and quarters ; a beautiful animal weighing from 250 to 300 pounds, and very fierce when wounded. They inhabit the coast from this to Delagoa Bay, and are numerous ; the does are often to be seen in large herds, and are likewise very beautiful, resembling a fallow deer, but of a much darker red, striped and spotted with white ; they have no horns, and are half the size of the stag, and nowhere else in Africa have I met with them. I had some trouble in getting him, and must have lost him but for Fly, who brought him to bay several times. I gave him a slanting shot through the shoulder, and out at the neck, and tumbled him over, but he was on his legs again in an instant, and dashed into the bush. When I at last secured him I thought I should never have sufficiently admired him ;
THE AMATOXGAS.
77
but the sun was setting fast, and it was all I could do to get him skinned, and the meat hung up in a tree, before dark. The Amatongas found their way back through the dark in an astonishing manner ; they carried the skin, head and horns for me, held back the branches, warned me of stakes or stumps in the path, or took up thorns that lay in my path, and altogether treated me with more courtesy than I had ever before experienced in my life.
27 th. — I made an attempt to preserve the skin of my inyala, but, owing to the want of arsenical soap, I failed. The skull and horns were all that I could keep. To-day I paid off my Zulus, and engaged two Amatongas in their place, to carry my things to the next kraals, only a short distance, and arrived early. Got two of the best hunting Amatongas to follow up with me some buffalo spoor which I noticed. I came up with the troop, stalked in upon them, and shot a fine young bull.
2 Sth. — Hired two fresh fellows to carry, and again got under weigh early. After a stiff walk of about four hours, we stopped for breakfast and drank about! inyouti (Amatonga beer), which is very good, when not too thick. After another stretch of two hours, we halted for the day at a kraal, where I en¬ gaged a fine Amatonga to carry my gun, &c., all the time I was in the country. The terms of my engage¬ ment were that I should give him the inside fat of an elephant, if I should have the luck to get one. Another Kaffir joined my forces to-day, gratis, and
78
AFRICAN HUNTING.
I gladly enlisted him on those terms. I only wanted a couple of companions, or some books, to make me perfectly happy during the fearfully long nights, when I lay stretched out on my mat, sipping coffee, and eating roasted nuts and salt, with a fire burning close to me on the floor. I could easily have con¬ cocted a light of some kind or other, if I had had any use for it. Eats annoyed me considerably during the night, owing to my having so much flesh in the hut.
29 th. — Off at sunrise, and saw three lions sneak¬ ing off from a wildebeest. I was anxious to go after the former, but the Amatongas would not hear of such folly and danger, and argued the matter thus : ‘What should I do with one, in case I was for¬ tunate enough to kill it P ’ — instead of the tables being turned, which they seemed to think the most probable issue to the attempt ; besides, the lions were their friends, and provided them constantly with flesh, and they would take no part in molesting them. Though strange, it is quite true that the na¬ tives throughout are indebted to the lions for many a dainty repast. Crossed the Umkusi, a beautiful river, with large trees overhanging and spreading across. Saw wolves, waterbuck, and several troops of pallah, and took up my quarters for the night with an Ama- tonga chief, named Job. The Amatonga brought all manner of things for sale. I invested in a fowl, eggs, nuts, some good rice, beer, and a very strong, neatly-made mat, to carry my blanket and to sleep
-J.Wolf, lith. .
MY FIRST ELEPHANT.
79
on, for a few strings of Umgazi beads, and a red kali, a piece of curtain binding, about eighteen inches long, which the Kaffirs are fond of wearing round their heads. I told the Kaffir to kill and pluck the fowl. The latter operation he accomplished very com¬ pletely, but as he had neglected the former, when I took the fowl in my hand to take out its inside, I was horrified by its struggling out of my hand, and running off, as bare as a board !
30/A. — I paid off my former carriers, and engaged two others. We toiled a long, weary way through dense bush all the day. We passed innumerable vleys, covered with ducks, widgeon, geese, waterrails, cranes, and divers of all sorts, very tame ; but as I was loaded with ball, I did not molest them. I fol¬ lowed up a herd of impalas, and got a shot at one more than 200 yards off, and cut both his fore legs from under him, skinned him, and breakfasted on him on the spot, and carried away the fore quarters and the skin with us. I slept in a capital hut, fully ten feet high in the centre, and neatly finished off.
July Is/. — I started early for the Pongola, with three or four Amatongas. In going through the bush, I saw a great number of pit-falls, about nine feet deep, and very narrow at the bottom. They are made by the natives to entrap all sorts of game. After walking several miles, the Kaffirs cried out 6 Nance inthovu ! ’ (see elephant), and I beheld, about three-quarters of a mile off, a huge monster flapping his enormous ears, just at the edge of the
80
AFEICAN HUNTING.
busli. I was in great excitement, filled my ban¬ dolier with about twenty-four bullets, re-filled two powder-flasks, took an infinity of caps, and two guns, which most unfortunately happened to contain but small charges of powder (three and a half drachms), as I had not expected elephants, and had no means of drawing the bullets without firing, which would have started them instantly. Oh, for a breech-loader ! In this dilemma, I determined on firing at his knee, if I could not get a side-shot between the ear and the eye. When all was in readiness, I looked up again, and saw about fifteen elephants, one ap¬ parently with long white teeth, which I set my mind on securing. I kept well below the wind, and came within 100 yards of them, when my Amatonga guide declined proceeding farther. It was rather nervous work, going up alone, as I saw them breaking off huge boughs of trees, which crashed all around. I went up stealthily, however, within thirty yards of a large cow, but, not liking her teeth, was proceed¬ ing with the utmost caution to inspect some of the others, and endeavour to find the one I had seen at a distance, with the long white tusks, when, to my horror and mortification, I heard My barking in the middle of the troop. In a moment they were off, smashing everything before them, in a great state of alarm. I ran about six miles after them, through the bush, and came up with three of them. I gave one a shot behind the shoulder, but they all made off, and I saw no more of them ; and, though I
THE PONG OLA.
81
instantly rushed in, a calf and the stem of a retreat¬ ing old cow was all the chance of a shot I got. In the excitement of the moment, I had forgotten all about the dog, and felt much mortified at the mischief she was the cause of ; for I was perfectly cool and collected at these, my first elephants, and should most undoubtedly have got a good shot, even if I had not disabled, and eventually, perhaps, bagged one of the best of them. I never hailed anything with more joy than the Pongola : I was half dead from thirst, never having touched a drop of water all day; and the river was as cold, clear, and beautiful as any I ever saw. It is at this point about 100 yards wide, and its banks on both sides are covered with the wild fig-tree, which grows to an enormous size.
After crossing the Pongola, and sleeping at Moputa’s, I was ready to start early on the 5th, but had to wait some time for the return of my Kaffir, Jack. When he arrived, I administered a little wholesome chastisement with a rhinoceros sjambok, and started on a long, heavy walk through deep sand, and finally arrived at a kraal, where I was greeted as usual by a set of noisy curs, which invariably, at the sight of a white man, tumble head-over-heels in all directions, upsetting everything, as frightened as if they had seen an apparition. After the first alarm they bait you unmercifully, and for many minutes it is impossible to hear yourself speak. I don’t know that I ever succeeded in making friends
G
82
AFRICAN HUNTING.
with a real Kaffir cur in my life, not even a puppy, and I scarcely ever saw, or knew, or heard of one good for anything ; they do indeed lead the life of a dog. They are well-fed when quite young, but afterwards they are expected to provide for themselves, and are, consequently, wretchedly lean and mangy, but they continue to exist.
After pacifying them a little, driving them to a more respectable distance by sweeping the legs of two from under them with a well-directed hedge- stake, and felling a third with a stone, I ordered food to be cooked for me, and enquired the news, and heard there was great sickness in the country, and that a friend of mine, John Dunn, whom I had hoped to join, had just been carried out of the country by the natives, almost dead. I had, fortu¬ nately, met two hunters, Jack and George, the previous day — the latter very sick — and had got a little jalap from him ; and having with me calomel, tartar emetic, and laudanum, took an emetic as a preventative, and continued doing so weekly as long as I remained in the unhealthy country.
(PA. — Started early with a hunchbacked dwarf for a guide. He had two of the most extraordinary legs I ever saw — I cannot call them a pair — but with them he managed to give me a great deal of trouble to keep up with him. I saw to-day Guinea fowl of a kind new to me, very like a black cock in plumage, with buff tufts on their heads, and no tails. We crossed the Pongola and reached some large
A SCRAMBLE.
83
vleys of water, with lots of wild fowl and large black geese. We saw also a few sea-cows, three of which I struck at long distances. They were very shy, having been shot at a good deal.
The Kaffirs brought me in the evening some vile water porridge, made of inyouti, a small seed grown by the Kaffirs, which was quite uneatable. I bought some twenty fresh eggs, and made a great discovery in cooking. I fried this same inyouti porridge in fat, broke some eight eggs over it, and so concocted as fine a mess as anyone could wish for ; indeed, it was so good, that I reserved the remains for the morning.
7 th. — Off early again after the sea-cows. On arriving, I saw only one up, which I had killed the afternoon before, and which a Kaffir had found out, and was going in for, but he made off on seeing me. I soon came on a lot asleep, and, getting pretty near, I shot the biggest of them. I soon had some eighty or a hundred Kaffirs around me, and they hauled up the cow. Nothing could be more courteous than their behaviour while I took what I wanted ; but as soon as I delivered over the carcase to them, there ensued an indescribable scene of confusion. The Kaffirs rushed at the beast with assegais, knives, picks, and axes ; hallooing, bellowing, shoving, and fighting, in a manner that no one would believe who had not seen them. Occasionally the captain ran in, and laid about him with a rhinoceros sjambok in every direction. The strongest of the savages got
84
AFEICAN HUNTING.
at the beast, cut off pieces, and hurled them over their heads to their accomplices outside, who dashed at them and ran with them, each to a separate heap, where he deposited his piece, and where no one meddled with it. In a very short time the whole cow was disposed of, and not an atom left for about one hundred adjutants who were stalking about in hopes of a share of the prey. The same scene took place at the next, they both being uncommonly fat, young, tender, and delicious meat. A man with a thrifty housewife need not starve in this country, for I killed to-day about five tons of delicious meat with unlimited fat.
The sun was down before we reached the kraal again, where I found myself suddenly a great man. Presents of all sorts were made to me — eggs, bread, rice, beer, pumpkins, and all the produce of the land. The bread looks just like roasted potatoes, but I cannot say much in its favour.
8th. — Spent a quiet day at home, making bell- tong, and pickling the tongue, &c. of the cow. I made the captain a handsome present of a choice piece of the beef, and inspected the kraal. The natives have the good taste, when making a clear¬ ance for their gardens, to spare the gum-trees. They are very beautiful trees, with dark green leaves sweeping the ground. Their foliage is so thick, that no daylight penetrates to the interior. The Ama- tongas are very industrious, both men and women working in the gardens — a thing almost unheard-of
CHASE OP SIX ELEPHANTS.
85
among the Zulu men, who would think it degrading, and an occupation only for the women. You seldom meet an Amatonga without his carrying a fire-stick, and big fires are slowly consuming all around the clearance.
9 th. — Loth to leave such good quarters, I took a stroll with half-a-dozen Amatongas, to another vley, where I saw lots of sea-cows lying asleep, almost high and dry, with large white birds sitting on their heads, looking just like the hulls of so many vessels, but in unapproachable places. I got a shot at one facing me, and gave her a bullet in the forehead, and was waiting to see if she would rise, when opposite me, over the vley, I saw six elephants. My guide brought me well up to them with wonderful sagacity. A young bull stood between me and the only cow worth shooting ; they moved on so quickly on seeing me, that I fired at the bull, and hit him behind the shoulders, laming him a good deal. We chased them about a mile on the open as hard as ever we could run ; not much, if anything, to choose between the Amatongas and myself. I was only clad in a long shirt and gaiters, with light felt shoes, and we ran upon pretty even terms, and kept very near the elephants, though never able to get near enough for a broadside. The large cow with a young calf turned and showed fight, whereat the Amatongas fled. Now was my chance, as she stood with her trunk in the air, to have shot her in the chest, but I first aimed at the top of her trunk, then I
86
AFRICAN HUNTING.
thought I would wait till she turned, and when she did so, I struck her too high, and I never came up with them again. I returned to the kraal, as the reader may imagine, not in the best of humours.
th. — Oft again : a weary, long walk, through heavy sand. However, I got a good bath about half way, and lots of beer at the different kraals, and at sundown we arrived at the residence of the chief, Umpongal, a man of gigantic stature. He received me well, and gave me the best hut I have ever yet seen, all made of reeds, with the roof beautifully worked. I was honoured by drinking beer out of his private cup, which holds about a gallon, and by a present of a line fat fowl.
On the 11th, I went to Mathlashlas, and the next day I crossed the Umsutie or Mapoota, a beautiful broad river, very deep, about ninety yards wide, and apparently navigable, emptying itself into Delagoa Bay — with magnificent trees upon its banks, abounding with sea-cows, and swarming with cro¬ codiles. I counted twenty-two at one time, on a small sand-bank in the middle of the river. The stream runs swiftly, and though I walked along its banks for two days, I saw no chance of crossing anywhere without a canoe. The Amatongas lost themselves in the bush, and it was four hours after sunset when we made some kraals, where we put up for the night, and fared rather badly, after a hard day’s work, on mealies and cold water. I had no
DIFFICULTIES IN NAVIGATION.
87
blanket with me, and felt the cold considerably, though we kept up a good fire. I shot badly, and with worse luck, killing nothing, though I had two good chances at buffaloes, four at sea-cows, one at impala, one at a waterbuck ram. Most of these I hit; but hitting and killing large game are two very different things.
13 th. — We started early on our return, and on the river I got into difficulties with the canoe. As there were no natives at hand, I got into it alone, but could not keep her head up stream. In drifting down at a rapid pace, she shot under the overhang¬ ing bough of a tree, and swept me out. I clung to the branch, and got my heels into the boat, and then, with a desperate effort, my whole body ; but I lost my long pole, which, being made of greenwood, sank to the bottom. I had a paddle, however, and brought her to the side, where I clung on to some branches, and awaited assistance. As long as I held on to the trees, there was no danger, except from crocodiles, which were rather numerous there. An Amatonga at last came to my assistance in another canoe, and we fastened them together. I worked the paddle and he the long pole, and we got across, making one boat fast, and working the other up stream, to the landing-place.
14 th. — Partook of my last coffee and sugar, with deep regret and many a pang.
The captain made me a present of a small pair of tusks, and tried hard to bargain for one of my guns,
88
AFRICAN HUNTING.
offering me five splendid tusks, worth ten times as much as the gun.
loth. — Boasting hot day. Took a turn in a dif¬ ferent direction, when I swam to a place some twenty- five yards wide, and laughed heartily at the faces of many who could not swim being towed across by their companions, and the convulsive, spasmodic efforts they made — the most abject fear being de¬ picted on every muscle of their countenances. Some of them were first-rate water-dogs, and brought my guns and traps over dry, which I could not have done myself. Oceans of good beer here yesterday : an old woman brought a basket of sand, laid it on the floor, made a large hole in the middle, and placed in it an immense jar of beer, which could not have held less than nine gallons. Another supply followed in the evening, in a basket made of grass, and perfectly watertight.
YJth. — We mustered a strong party of fifteen, including the captain of the kraal, and three fellows to carry beer. We took oar blankets with us, and walked a long way without seeing anything. At last an old bull buffalo jumped up close to me, and I gave him a bullet behind the shoulder, which brought him on his knees ; but he soon recovered himself, and went off*. I sent a second ball after him, to no purpose. Farther on, I saw a large sea-bull lying asleep close inland behind some reeds, and pro¬ ceeded to crawl in on him ; and just as I showed myself, half way to my waist in water, to my
SEA-BULL.
89
surprise, instead of endeavouring to make his escape, he charged right at me, at great speed. He stopped for a second about twenty yards off, and I gave him a pill under the ear, which made him spin round and round like a top. I fired two more bullets into his body without effect, missed him
with a third (meant for his head), and began to fear we were to lose him altogether, as he seemed recovering, and was gradually getting farther and farther away into deep water, and giving very poor chances of a shot. The sun was shining so directly on him, that I could not see to shoot a bit ; the foot¬ ing was slippery, and I was half way up to my middle in mud and water, when I got a last chance, and put the ball exactly between the ear and the eye, and
90
AFKICAN HUNTING.
killed him. The sun was fast setting ; the Kaffirs got him nearly ashore, and we lighted three huge fires (with a cap and powder on the heel-plate of my gun, giving it a smart blow with a stone), and fed on him, but he was horribly tough. The night was awfully foggy, and the dew heavy ; and, when morning came, I had every symptom • of fever. Notwithstanding, I. was obliged to walk twenty-five miles home, with scarcely any shade on the road. Many a vow I made, during the day, never to return to the country.
The next day I kept my bed, and my ink being exhausted, I continued my journal with a compound of tea and gunpowder. Being very anxious to get back to the Pongola, where I had some faint hopes of finding Barter and Moreton, and obtaining a little quinine, and a fresh supply of provisions — as I had nothing in the shape of food, and was so weak that I could no longer eat beans, mealies, and inyouti — I started, and reached Umpongal’s.
21st — Again got under weigh, trying to make Utumani’s, but, after fighting on for about four hours, I had to give in. I could not walk five yards straight, or keep in the path at all. After about two hours’ rest under the shade of a tree, I made some kraals, where I took up my quarters, and took three emetics, none having any effect. As a last resort, thinking it was all up with me, I got a Kaffir to tickle my throat with long grass, full of little seeds, pushed far down. This, at last, had the desired
AGUE AGAIN.
91
effect, and in the course of a couple of hours I felt better.
22 nd. — Eeached Utumani’s at sunset, utterly done up. Spent a miserable night, never closing my eyes : rats annoyed me beyond all possible endurance — galloping and chasing one another all over my body and face. I roused my Kaffir, struck a light, and took a strong dose of laudanum, and towards morn¬ ing I got a good sleep.
I was now better, but the ague returned with dreadful punctuality at four every afternoon, and lasted about two hours.
I had managed to make a short journey almost every day, and on the evening of the 24th I reached Moputa’s, and was hospitably received by the cap¬ tain, who sent me heaps of eggs, &c., and I had a good night’s rest. A long walk brought me on the next day to the Pongola, where, instead of the quinine which I had been looking forward to, and the luxuries of coffee, sugar, and bread (which last I had not tasted for seven weeks), I found simply nothing. At last, however, I discovered a little rice, which I had left behind me on my last visit, and which was now really welcome. The next day, Tom, the messenger, arrived with a supply of all comfort¬ able things, and raised my spirits considerably.
On the 28th I started early, and long before sunset reached Tagati’s, where I stayed the following day with Austin. He left me the next day, after making an exchange of salt for some needles and
92
AFRICAN HUNTING.
thread. Got over this much-dreaded part of the road, twenty miles across — a dreary sandy flat, without a tree or a drop of water — and then live or six miles through the bush, wonderfully, being highly favoured with a beautiful cool cloudy day, with a line lively breeze of wind all the way.
August 2 nd. — I offered my hunter some beads, if he could show me another inyala. We pro¬ ceeded a long way, through very thick bush ; at last, I saw the Kaffir’s eyes sparkle, and, on emerging out of the bush to a water-pool, he made frantic gestures to me to go round another way, which I did with caution, not knowing in the least what 1 was to see. A moment after, I beheld a noble buck inyala walking leisurely away, having slaked his thirst, about seventy or eighty yards off. Presently, he turned half round, and was greeted with a ball in the shoulder, when he made a tremendous spring into the air, and dashed headlong into the bush. The Amatongas ran like lightning, and with wonder¬ ful sagacity followed him through thick bush, and brought him to bay, where my Kaffir, to whom I had given a second gun, brought him down.
A day or two after, I bid adieu to Tagati, and, on the 5th, I crossed the Umkusi, and engaged my Kaffir’s two brothers to accompany me to the bay. On the 8th, I crossed the St. Luey, and on the fol¬ lowing day got back to the wagon. As I was still unwell, and much fatigued, having walked hard for seven successive days from the Pongola, I deter-
OUT IN MY RECKONING.
93
mined to send on two of my men to bring me my j>ony Billy. It was a walk of about eight days to the bay, and my original Kaffir was in great fear of the Zulus, and begged a shirt of me to disguise him a little, as then, he said, they would know that he was a white man’s Kaffir, and would not molest him. I could ill spare it, having only two, but I could not prevail on him to start without.
While waiting for their return, three mounted Dutchmen rode up to me one day, and kindly offered to sell me an old broken-down horse, worth about 6/., for 400 dollars (about 301.). I declined their obliging offer, whereat they all rode off again.
13 th. — Beached Makite’s kraal, where I found the ivory of nine elephants, shot by my two hunters, buried in the cattle-kraal, as they had told me ; but, before giving it up, the captain, in whose charge it was left, made my fellows point out where it was buried, to show that we were the rightful owners, which my fellows were luckily able to do, having been told beforehand by the hunters who buried it.
On the 15th, I heard of poor Harris’s untimely death. Poor fellow ! we had agreed to go together the following year to Mosilikatse’s country.
20 th. — Started my indoda (old man) off to the Umslatoose, to look after Billy and the Kaffir, and bring them on here. Paid a visit to a friend trading at Umlandillas, and, on comparing notes, found I was two days behind-hand in my dates, and can only account for it by supposing I must have been
94
AFRICAN HUNTING.
insensible in the Amatonga kraals, across the Pongola, when those days slipped by. Bought sixty-seven head of cattle and six sheep, thirteen shillings a head all round, after several days’ bargaining ; and had a day’s work, sorting, choosing, and branding, out of some four hundred Steele had traded.
26th. — No signs of the pony at the appointed place of meeting, so I again started for Durban.
29 th to 31st. — Spent three miserable soaking- wet days, with the choice of being almost suffo¬ cated with the smoke of damp wood, or being drenched to the skin. My food all the time con¬ sisted of bread and milk, sometimes boiled for a change ; which would have been all very well, but I was obliged to put myself on short commons, as my meal was only 21bs. weight to begin upon, and I made it hold out the three days.
September ls£. — Found my messengers, but no horse. They had never crossed the Tugela : the indoda fell into bad hands, got well thrashed, and everything he had taken from him. He tried to give me a long account of his grievances, but I did not understand one word.
9 th. — Made Durban at last, having got the loan, at the Umslali, forty miles off, of a fearfully fat pack-ox (Monkey), and got a burster off him in jumping a sluit ; my rheim broke from his nose, and away he went home again.
95
CHAPTER IV.
1855.
A HUNTING TRIP INTO THE ZULU COUNTRY.
I had been making my head-quarters as usual at Brindle, a farm in the Umvoti district, belonging to Mr. Eastwood, a most intimate friend and neighbour in England, who had been also a fellow-passenger on the voyage out to the colony. We had a great deal of trouble and annoyance in getting Kaffirs, but at last I managed to start on March 31, with only a driver and foreloper, having agreed to give the latter a heifer to go to the Tugela — -a most exorbitant price. Our first feat was to upset the wagon, and scatter its contents far and wide. This caused us a delay of a couple of days, during which I succeeded in engaging three Kaffirs. I therefore dismissed my foreloper, and got on as far as Grey Town, where I was again delayed three or four days by incessant rain.
I left Grey Town on April 7, and, after con¬ tinually sticking in the mud of the worst roads I ever saw, I reached, on the 10th, the house of a
96
AFRICAN HUNTING.
Norwegian missionary named Lawson. The descent which we had to make from here rather staggered us, but Mr. Lawson advised tying up three wheels and having rheims and Kaffirs to hold up the wagon on the upper side, as the descent was very slanting as well as steep. He followed up his advice practically by the loan of an old trek tow, which I must confess to having subsequently appropriated. With its assist¬ ance and two rheim chains we reached the bottom in safety. In a similar position two days afterwards we were not so fortunate. By dint of screeching, and flogging the oxen, we had reached the top of a des¬ perate hill. The descent commenced almost imme¬ diately : the foreloper did not warn us in time to stop the wagon, and put on the drag, and lock the wheels ; so down we went at a frightful pace. I, not liking the situation, threw myself on a big thorn-tree, which we were passing at full speed, and escaped with no further injury than the ruin of my shirt. I had just got clear of my not too comfortable bed, when I heard the wagon come to a sudden halt. I ran forward and beheld ten of the oxen round a tree, and one of the Kaffirs wringing his hands and dancing in a frantic manner, roaring out 4 mam mo mammi, mammi mammo,’ over the foreloper, who was on the ground covered with blood, and looking as wild as a hawk. What had happened to him I have never yet been able to understand. On closer examination, I found that the poor fellow’s skull was split on the left side, and it appeared as if the wagon had gone over his
AN ACCIDENT.
97
right arm. I gave him some sal-volatile, and, after washing his wounds and cutting his hair away, fixed his head tightly between my knees. The Kaffirs looked on in awe, but when they saw me take out
needle and thread, thimble, &c. to sew up his head, they raised a fearful outcry, in which the wounded man joined : I was therefore obliged to desist from my operation, and content myself with binding up his head as tightly as I could. I made up a nice bed for him in the wagon, but he positively refused to go on. The other two Kaffirs also refused, and wanted to know how many head of cattle I intended
H
98
AFRICAN HUNTING.
paying his father for his being killed in my service. There is no use arguing with Kaffirs; when they take a thing into their heads, they are worse than mules, so I was obliged most reluctantly to leave the poor fellow behind. I was left in a pretty fix, with no one but the driver to manage four loose horses and as many loose oxen, as well as the wagon. I managed for a few miles, and then had the luck to pick up a boy to go with us to the Tngela for half-a-crown. In the evening two Dutchmen stopped at my wagon, who said the Kaffirs who had left me wanted gunpowder — a very usual remedy with them in many cases — and also told me that the Kaffirs intended to bleed the wounded man between the shoulders and rub in gunpowder. I fear they must have killed him amongst them all.
On the 14th I reached the Tugela, where I was detained a fortnight for want of a proper pass, signed by a resident magistrate. On May 1st I got the pass, and crossed the river, which was very high. In the course of a few days I lost three of my horses from the lung sickness, and on the 10th my mare Bessie Bell sickened. I sent her off immediately to Lewis, requesting him to bleed her, and followed the next day with a sorry heart, to hear her fate. I was in time to see her alive. I loosened her halter, and she followed me about like a dog, looking most piteously. I could not bear to see her, and thought of shooting her, but, before I could make up my mind to do so, her miseries were ended. She was a
SEA-COWS.
99
mare I valued beyond price for her many good qualities, but chiefly for her attachment to me, and her wonderful powers of endurance. She carried me seventy-five miles in one day with the saddle only once off her back, without showing the slightest symptom of fatigue !
May lith. — After making various exchanges, such as beads for canvas, powder for cooking utensils, &c., Lewis and myself parted company, intending to meet again in about a month. I tried to find a practicable road to the Umgowie Mountains, as, since the loss of all my horses, my only chance of game was among the mountains and bush. I could find no road, so I followed Lewis’s track. In the course of the day I unaccountably lost my dog Fly: I think he must have been bitten by a snake ; I had killed a mamba, nine feet long, the day before.
Hearing from the Kaffirs that there were sea-cows in the Umlilas, I outspanned, and waited till the sun was getting low, and went in pursuit. How my heart beat at hearing the well-known blow just round a bend of the river, and, cautiously peering round, saw three, making up the stream ! They were very shy, and showed poor heads. I took a round, and got above them unperceived, and made an excellent shot at a very large bull ; he only just showed his eye above the water at about fifty yards, and I put a bullet from Burrow (my Ho. 7) in the very centre. I was loth to fire at so poor a chance, but the river being
100
AFRICAN HUNTING.
narrow I thought I must take the first chance, or I might see him no more.
15i ih. — I found my sea-cow on his back in the middle of a large hole, about forty yards from land, with half a dozen crocodiles round him. I bribed the Zulus, and bullied my Kaffirs, to go in and fasten cords on him to tow him ashore, but in vain ; so after firing a couple of shots, and throwing stones to frighten the crocodiles, I swam in, made the cords fast to him, and made for the shore again as soon as possible, shouting lustily to scare the crocodiles. The ropes had been so carelessly fastened together that they came undone as soon as they were used, and I was obliged to swim in again. It was not a very pleasant position to be rolling about on a sea-cow with crocodiles all round one, and I did not at all relish it. Through bad management I had to go in four times, and once, while swimming from him to shore with a slip-knot round my arm, striking out vigorously, the rheim being too short, checked me suddenly, and sent me a good depth under ; the Kaffirs howled again, making sure the crocodiles had me.
At last, however, after several failures, we got him to land. The next day I brought up the head, which the crocodiles, adjutants, and vultures had picked tolerably clean, and buried it near a kraal, in charge of an old Kaffir, salted the tongue and a tub full of meat, stretched some sjamboks and whip¬ lashes round the wagon, and in the afternoon started in pursuit of more, but without success.
CROCODILES.
101
17 ih. — Off long before sunrisb for buffaloes, but, owing to the want of dogs and the stupidity of my man, we were unsuccessful. On our return to the wagon, I shot a crocodile lying high and dry, fast asleep. It was some time before I could make out which was his head and which his tail, and I wTas nearly shooting at the wrong end. When the bullet struck him, he threw up his head and opened his huge jaws, and I saw that I had broken his
spine. He would, however, have wriggled himself into the river, had I not given him a bullet in the throat and another in the chest, which settled him. I watched him from the opposite bank for a full hour, ready to give him another ball if he showed any sign of life, and when I was satisfied that he was
102
AFRICAN HUNTING.
stone dead, I hastened round by the wagon to get assistance, and a hatchet, to bring home his head as a trophy ; but, on returning to the river, nothing was to be seen but pools of blood : the other crocodiles had dragged him into the water in the meantime. I was much disappointed, as it is difficult to get one, except in the water, where they always sink when shot.
Here is a recipe for an excellent stew : about one pound and a half of breast of sea-cow well stewed, cut up small, about three table-spoonfuls of inside fat rendered down as white as snow, a few red peppers, salt, a handful of rice, a handful of fine flour, a couple of pickled walnuts, with a few sprigs of thyme, or some such herb. The ingredients seem rather miscel¬ laneous ; all I can say is, that I made it by guess, and put in anything I had ; but when it came up, I thought nothing could improve it. The long nights were rather dreary with nothing but ‘Blaine’s Field Sports ’ and a few old 6 Family Heralds ’ to read; but, though I should like companions in the evening, I should always prefer to shoot alone.
25th. — I recovered my oxen, which had been lost for two days previously, and with some labour got over the rise of the Umlilas.
2 Qth. — A long blank day on the tops of the Umgowies ; — wearisome up-hill work, and saw nothing but an eland cow, which was too wary to let us approach, so we went supperless to bed.
28th. — By the advice of a Dutchman, Joubert by name, I changed my route, and he accompanied
KAFFIR CHURCH.
103
me back to Nungela’s, who was very gracious, and offered to kill a beast in return for a bottle of grog. We stayed out nearly the whole night trying for a sea-cow, but the wind was so capricious that we never 'Could get near them; and at last they made off, followed at a killing pace by Joubert, two Kaffirs, and myself. I strained every nerve, more to beat a Kaffir, who was flying along with a blanket fastened round his neck, streaming behind him, than with any hope of coming up with the sea-cows, who were tear¬ ing along ahead at a fierce pace. I was first up, but the sea-cows had gained the long grass, and we saw no more of them.
June 3rd. — I went to church, and saw such a medley as I should have thought mortal would never have the chance of seeing. The side walls were built of mud, and, with the help of wooden posts, supported a zinc roof. To windward, the walls had fallen in, leaving the building airy and open. From the beams hung Kaffir ropes, the tent and sides of a wagon, loads of mealies, old saddles, yokes, skeys, neckstraps, and all apparatus for wagoning, old hats and bridles, and part of a splendid tiger-skin. In the midst of all this and ten times more, rose a pulpit, the cushions and hangings of which bore marks of a great deal of service ; and in the pulpit a tall, bushy whiskered Norwegian missionary, in a black coat buttoned to the throat and reaching to the heels, with spectacles of course, held forth. About thirty Kaffirs, men and women, squatted on a mat on
104
AFRICAN HUNTING
their hams, huddling close together, two under one
blanket, hunting the borders for - , and cracking
heaps of them, or taking thorns out of their feet with wooden pins, unseen by the pastor, who held forth for more than three hours.
A kinder, more hospitable, better-hearted man, however, never breathed. He used to summon his congregation to Divine Service by having a bell sus¬ pended round his horse’s neck, tinkle-tinkle all the way he went. Though I must narrate things as I found them in different parts of Africa, I shall always entertain the highest opinion of Mr. Schro.eder, and feel grateful to him for much kindness and hospitality received at his hands on several occasions ; and, if any man ever succeeds in converting to Christianity the Zulus, or any part of the nation, he is as likely a man as any I know, being uncommonly well read, thoroughly acquainted with the language, manners, and customs of the nation, and having great influence with them ; and, though I doubt his making converts, the Zulus respect and look up to him, and would on no account injure him.
4 th. — I had two chances at buffaloes; gun missed fire both times first barrel, and, what may probably never occur again, I killed dead with the second on each occasion an old cow and splendid heifer ; very fat, delicious meat.
The days passed one so like another, that for a month I kept no account of them. On July 4, as we were out buffalo shooting, an old cow buffalo with
KAFFIR APPRECIATION OF WEALTH.
105
a young calf charged me ferociously in the bush, down a steep hill. I stood my ground, as I had no time to run away, and gave her a bullet high up in the near fore shoulder, as she came within about ten yards of me. I then made a spring on one side, and she crashed past me, almost grazing my breast. With my second barrel I rolled her head over heels, not more than three lengths from me. She soon regained her legs, turned and made up the hill, trying to get at my gun-carrier, who was up a tree, just out of her reach. I was behind another tree close to her, but she did not see me, and I kept as still as a mouse. She then hobbled away down the hill mortally wounded, and I finished her off with a third ball.
July 22 nd. — We crossed the Black Umveloose, and on the following day the Inyoni. At the kraal which we visited, the Kaffirs were all very inquisitive to know how I came by the wagon and oxen, as last year, when I had spent some time there, I had not even a Kaffir in my service, and I had increased 500 per cent, evidently in their estimation, as they despise a poor man as much as they respect a rich one, to whom they are very fawning and servile.
29th. — I got three letters from home and a Natal newspaper, and by their help and that of my driver, who recollected the days of the week, I corrected my reckoning, which had been two days out.
August 1st. — We were ploughing our way through long, heavy wet grass and scrubby thorn trees, when an old rhinoceros cow got up slowly from behind a
106
AFRICAN HUNTING.
thorn tree, and, after giving me a good stare, advanced slowly towards me. I had only my small rifle, my gun-carrier being about twenty yards behind with my No. 9. I beckoned frantically to him to come on, but he seemed very undecided. At last, however, being a plucky little fellow, he came up, threw the gun at me, case and all, and ran up a tree like a monkey. I lost no time in getting the gun out of the cover, and gave the rhinoceros a ball in the chest. She turned round in double quick time, panting like a porpoise. I followed, but a Kaffir cur prevented me from getting very near, so she got away.
On climbing the top of the hill I saw two more, and sent my Kaffir below them, thinking they were sure to make down hill. I could not get near them, but just as they were about to make off, I shot one in the shoulder, but rather too low, and away they went. The dogs turned one, and brought him back not fifteen yards from me at full trot, his head up and his tail curled over his back, stepping out in splendid style, with fine high action. He looked very much inclined to charge me, but a bullet behind his shoulders, which dropped him on his knees, made him alter his course. I felt convinced that I had killed him, and followed him. At last, we saw a brute lying down in so natural a position that I never thought he could be dead, and shot him behind the shoulder, but he had laid down for the last time some hours before. It was the one I had shot first. After cutting out his horns, some sjamboks and his
RHINOCEROS CALF.
107
tongue, and hanging them up in a tree, we went off for water, and had not gone far when I saw another, about twenty yards off, looking at me, uneasy, and apparently trying to screen herself from being seen. I waited some time till she turned, and then shot her behind the shoulder, when she im¬ mediately came at me, but a ball in the centre of her forehead stopped her progress, and she fell dead
not ten yards from me : a lucky shot, as I hardly knew where to fire, and I had not an instant to lose. I must have been impaled on her very long horn if I had not been fortunate enough to kill her. She had a very young calf, squealing most lustily, which the dogs were fighting with. I got them off, and wanted very much to take him to the wagon, and sent off my Kaffirs forthwith for half a dozen fellows
108
AFRICAN HUNTING.
to carry him. He was like a well-bred Chinese pig, prick-eared, very fine skinned and fat, and shone as if he had just been polished with black lead ; but while John and myself had gone to shoot a wilde- beeste to make something to carry him in, slung between two poles, the hyenas had killed him, pre¬ ferring him to the mother, though I had expressly cut a great portion of her hide off, that they might feed, as we were obliged to leave the calf all night to get water.
1 oth. — Hard day’s bargaining with Mopitas, and I was forced to pay very dear for four young oxen, which I was obliged to buy to replace deaths.
\4:th. — Ascended a very high hill, and spent some hours at the top in taking a survey of the surround¬ ing country, as broken, rugged, and hilly a country on every side as can well be imagined, but the view well repaid my labours.
lbth. — Started off again in the direction of the Pongola, crossed the Umkusi, and pitched my tent for the night, being unsuccessful in getting any game, though I worked very hard. I was the more astonished at this, as I never travelled over more promising ground, beautiful short, new, green sweet grass, with plenty of bush and water.
1 8th. — Returned to the wagon, killing only one reed-buck. As I was trying to jump the St. Luey, the bank, broke in with me, and I fell in, over head and ears. Saw a great number of koodoos and two troops of elands, buffaloes, and a vast quantity of game, but
PUFF ADDER.
109
did not stop to shoot, as I had lost myself, and was afraid I should not reach the wagon that night, and my Kaffirs had my blanket.
IffiA. — The hottest wind I ever yet felt in the colony. I was in the water half the day, and knew not where to put myself. These hot winds are, how¬ ever, of rare occurrence.
20 th. — Just as cold as yesterday was hot, and raining hard ; but, fortunately, I have got the loan of 4 Martin Chuzzlewit ’ for a few days. Turned out in the evening, got a steinbuck, koran, and dikkop.
Sept 19 th. — Inspanned, and started on my return ; two deaths among my oxen, the rest rather fine drawn; have been the most of my time away from the wagon, shooting and spending a few days with Kiley, Forbes, &c., and some very wet weather we have had. On the whole, very bad sport ; five old bull buffaloes afforded good sport, and took a deal of killing. I had many chances at black rhinoceros, but they are not worth a shot ; lost Kettle, by a tiger I suppose ; saw five lions at different times, but being alone, did not venture battle, as I did not see one by himself. Almost tumbled over three rhinoceros in the dark, and they hunted me away, following me up a good way, and showing every demonstration of their displeasure, ploughing up the ground, &c. : made a sad mull of two sea-cows, which I took for rhinoceros, the night being very much overcast, and did not venture as near as I might, as it was an open plain. I was not more than twenty-five yards off, but
110
AFRICAN HUNTING.
the wind being very favourable, I might, had I known they were sea-cows, almost have gone up and scratched them, and made dead sure of my shot ; as it was, owing to having no white paper on the muzzle of my gun, I could not aim with any certainty. Saw several large snakes about the St. Luey, and one horrid puff adder alarmed me consi¬ derably. I was trying to despatch him with an iron ramrod, when his head and throat swelled to an enormous size, turning a hideous livid colour, as he reared himself up, and, with a horrid hiss, pitched himself at me; but I managed to dodge him, and he disappeared. Got a couple of crocodiles, and caught a small one, about one foot long, alive — a wicked little monster; took from one a lot of beautiful fat, which burns brilliantly ; have got about 350 pounds of ivory to take down with me, and shall endeavour to make up my load with twenty-five buffalo hides, as I hear there is a sale for them.
2hth. — After losing the oxen for a couple of days, and a couple of stick-fasts, got on to the missionaries without any adventure. Mothlow shot a sea-cow, and I went down with a whole troop of Kaffirs to bring up half a wagon-load of speck, hearing she was a very large cow, and so she proved, but as lean as a crow. It was an awfully wet night, so I made a Kaffir kraal, and stayed the night, supping on a delicious wild duck, amas, tchualla, and coffee, and I contrived to bake a loaf of bread between two pieces of a broken Kaffir pot, so that I was truly in
THE END OF LANKY.
Ill
clover. My tent kept very heavy rain off sur¬ prisingly, and the soil being very sandy, soaked all up, and I spent a most comfortable night, when I had expected, from all appearances, just the reverse.
2 — Made the wagon again. I got over the
ground, twelve or fourteen miles, barefoot, very well, to my intense satisfaction ; it is an accomplishment I longed to achieve. Inspanned a young ox, which I had christened Lanky, after several hours’ hard fighting with him. I never saw so wild a brute ; he roared, and bellowed, and charged all before him in the most savage, determined manner, and butted furiously a bull-stag he was coupled with, but a right good buffalo rheim defied his utmost efforts, and when everything failed, he lay down, alas ! never more to rise. I thought dragging him a few yards might have the desired effect, but when we stopped the wagon, his neck was broken. I cut his throat, skinned, and cut him up, and have converted the most of him into bell tongue.
112
CHAPTEE V.
1856.
THIRD HUNTING TRIP INTO THE ZULU COUNTRY.
I left Mr. Eastwood’s, on Tuesday, October 7, on a tramping tour into the Zulu country, for the purpose of looking up my hunters, and taking them fresh ammunition. I took six Kaffirs with me, and while detained for four days at the Tugela, we were nearly starved. On going out one morning in search of a buffalo, I left one of my men under a tree, saying he was dying, but on my return with the news that I had shot one, he immediately revived.
I and one of my Kaffirs did not fare so badly. Being unable to shoot anything, as game was wrild and wary, and the bush very thick and impenetrable, so that we could not get on without making a noise and scaring the buffaloes, we swam the Tugela at night, and had a good feed of boiled mealies and milk, but were unable to bring anything across for the rest of the party, in consequence of the breadth of the river and the rapidity of the stream.
My old horse Mouba (Sugar) strayed away, owing to the carelessness of the Kaffir in whose charge he
WELL HOUSED IN WET WEATHER.
113
was, knee-lialtered, with a head-stall on, and a strap attached to it fastened to another very strong padded one, buckled above his knee, which kept his head within one foot of his knee. This plan is usually adopted in the colony, to facilitate catching one’s horse without hindering his feeding. We could not track him a bit, owing to the stony ground, and he remained knee-haltered for nearly three months, when he was found by a party of Dutch Boers hunting. I eventually recovered him, with no further injury than a deep scar above his knee, and a ring of white hairs round. The Boers who found him told me that, from the tracks he left, he must have slept and drank every day and night at the same place ; he was still knee-haltered, and it was extraordinary that he escaped the lions so long.
On the 20th, we reached the house of Mr. Schroe- der, the Norwegian missionary, by whom we were hos¬ pitably entertained during several days’ bad weather. I thought myself very fortunate to be under his roof, as neither my little tent nor a Kaffir kraal are very agreeable, under such circumstances.
I left Mr. Schroeder’s on the 23rd, with a supply of medicines, which he kindly gave me. I tried walking barefoot, but did not get on well. After sleeping at a Kaffir kraal, we continued our journey through a bad broken country, very slippery after the rain. However, I was in very good condition, and stood a long day’s unsuccessful hunt after a sea-cow with¬ out fatigue. On the 25th, we crossed the Umslatoose,
i
114
AFRICAN HUNTING.
where my biscuits had the misfortune to get a thorough soaking, owing to the carrier getting into a quicksand.
2Qth [Sunday). — Spent the day at the Norwegian Missionary Station, where there was a large muster of Kaffirs at church. The Norwegians are excellent hands at making up a good dinner out of poor mate¬ rials, and on this occasion Mrs. Aftebro fully sus¬ tained the reputation of her countrywomen.
A fat Muscovy duck, however, when young and tender, is not a bad subject to work on ; the stuffing, made of mealie meal and eggs, is excellent, and a sub¬ stitute for apple sauce, made of sour dock, is worth knowing of. They have a queer custom of giving you soup, afterwards, which I declined, but changed my mind on hearing it was sweet, made of arrow- root, preserves, &c.
I left the station the next morning, and had a good bit of shooting, bagging two steinbuck, one peau — a brilliant shot at 140 yards — and two koran. On reaching the kraal where I had told the Kaffirs to stop, I found them dancing and singing over two more steinbuck which they had killed.
2 8th — The Kaffirs were very importunate that I should shoot two reedbucks which they saw close at hand, so I took my gun and knocked one over, and soon afterwards a splendid crest-peau or bustard. We already had more meat than we could carry, and even the dogs turned up their noses at the daintiest morsels ; but the Kaffirs, though heavily laden, could not make up their minds to leave anything behind,
ATTACKED BY ENGLISH CHOLERA.
115
so we cleaned and plucked, and made all as light as possible, and the Kaffirs carried off everything, not excepting the huge crested bustard. In the course of the day we crossed the Umsindoosie, and, after some hard walking, reached the Umveloose at sunset.
The next morning we walked about four miles up the river, and, having found a crossing-place, we got safely over, though the river was high. The day was burning hot, and we reached Johnson’s wagon in the afternoon. An attack of English cholera laid me up there for several days, and I did not leave till late on November 4. I walked hard and reached the St. Luey, which I found much flooded, at sunset. In the course of the night we heard numbers of Hons, but saw nothing of them.
5 th. — Went into the bush, where the thick foliage and underwood and the long grass made the travel¬ ling bad and the shooting worse. However, I suc¬ ceeded in bagging two bush buck. Ragman, a six- months’ old puppy, behaved remarkably well, sticking to the second, a young doe, for fully two miles through the bush, and finally bringing her to bay at the river. He was dead beat when we found him, but he still held on like a vice. He is a whelp of great promise, bull and greyhound, with a dash of the pointer, the best breed possible, and the best feeder I ever saw, eating huge rashers of any animal just killed, when the sun is at the hottest, at which time very few dogs will feed, however hungry, saving us the trouble of carrying food for him. The natives make their
116
AFRICAN HUNTING.
curs carry their own food, by cutting a hole in a huge piece, slipping it over their heads round their necks ; and I have frequently met a score of curs ornamented with a necklace of the kind, cut from a hind leg, which part they value least of any, and each weighing half as much as the animal which carries it, and they can neither get it off nor eat it.
§th. — Eain all day. I made two sheaths for knives, and had a shot at a hyena in the evening, but being out of breath with running, I missed him. He was gorged to the verge of bursting.
1th. — Crossed the St. Luey, one of the best rivers I know of for sport of all kinds, and nearest to the colony; it rises somewhere at the foot of the Orn- bombo Mountains, and runs through a splendid wooded valley. Lions are very plentiful. One night I was encamped in my small tent, weighing only lOlbs., which I had pitched as usual at the foot of a large tree, easy of ascending in case of need. My old pack ox Dancer was made fast with a rheim through a hole in his nose, and pegged down close to the tent for safety ; and two Kaffir boys (the rest of my party having gone back to the wagon for stores) were at a large fire in a small belt of thorns (mimosas) within twelve yards, just opposite the opening of my tent, when I heard the deep low subdued murmur- ings of a lion gradually nearing us. Old Dancer became very fidgety. There was a lot of meat hang¬ ing in the tree — koodoo, waterbuck, &c. — out of reach of the dogs. The lion came on very stealthily
LIONS AGAIN.
117
and quietly, the night being very dark, and actually tried to claw the meat down from the tree close to me. I was sitting cross-legged, with my double rifle across my knees, expecting every moment to see his outline between me and the fire, where my lads were, as I thought, asleep; the brute actually stumbled over the tent ropes at the back, which were pegged down some six yards behind, causing a jar through the tent. Just at this critical moment something burst through the opening into my tent, quick as thought, and fell at my feet, and I was within an ace of shoot¬ ing my two Kaffir boys, who had been awake all the time, lying as still as dormice, but could stand it no longer. I expected every moment the lion would have sprung on old Dancer, who remained perfectly passive, but after in vain trying to claw the meat down again he left us. On getting up in the morn¬ ing I saw some six or seven different varieties of game ; I hardly knew which kind to hunt, but gave the koodoos the preference.
8th. — A long, heavy walk, through vleys and water and foot-paths running down with wet, brought us to the first Amatonga kraals, the most wretched habitations imaginable. The poor fellows were all but starving ; they had nothing to live on but wild figs, Kaffir oranges, and other fruit of the kind.
9 tli {Sunday). — Another wet and miserable day, my clothes, blankets, &c. all damp and unwholesome.
1(M. — To-day we had a long tramp through the bush. I wounded an inyala doe, and had a long
118
AFRICAN HUNTING.
chase after her, but eventually lost her. They are very wild and wary, and it requires the greatest caution to get a shot at them. Shortly after, I broke the leg of a buck. Eagman and Juno soon brought this one to a stand, and it dragged them a long way through the bush, bleating lustily. The dogs held on splendidly, and we followed the sound through the bush. At length I came on Eagman covered with blood, and was greatly surprised to find he had left the buck, but, hearing a row in the bush, I went on, and found three hyenas tearing away, and bolting skin and flesh at such a rate that in three minutes more there would not have been a particle left. Juno had fled in fear and trembling, and did not appear again for an hour. The hyenas retreated on my approach, and I was unable to get a shot at them, though I followed them, growling, a long way.
I went on afterwards to St. Lucia Bay, which I found swarming with wild fowl. I knocked over five geese at once, and shot a crocodile also.
12 th. — As we were going out after a sea-cow, the Amatonga who was leading cried out, 4 There is a dead buck,’ and I saw what I took to be an inyala doe, and went leisurely towards it. My fellows, however, ran, and when within about thirty yards, up rose a fine black-maned lion, and slunk into the bush close by. The Kaffir in advance vanished like smoke. Eagman ran, and was barking, when out came two lionesses brilling savagely, at which the
INYALA, DOGS, AND HYENAS.
LIONESSES.
119
Kaffirs all fled at the top of their speed. The lionesses eyed me some time at a distance of about thirty yards, and I was casting my eyes round for a
tree, as I expected them to come at me, but they slunk into the bush, and I never saw them again.
I afterwards gave a sea-cow a shot which I thought was fatal, but as he did not rise I went to look for another, and shortly hit one just under the root of the ear (the best shot you can give), and, after plunging and rolling over and over, for about ten minutes, he subsided, and we dragged him out some 200 yards below. The poor Amatongas were delighted, and carried all away but his head and back bone.
13i th. — The first fine day we have had for a long
120
AFRICAN HUNTING.
time. I turned out about two hours before sunset, and got a good chance at an inyala, but my gun hung fire, and the second barrel snapped. In coming back I gave one of the Amatongas a prod behind, to call his attention to a kind of wild dog, when he gave a most unearthly howl, and a bound which I never saw equalled, dropping all his assegais, whipping off his moutcha in a twinkling, and entreating me to come away, saying that an inyoka snake had bitten him, and that he should die. It was some time ere I could persuade the fellow otherwise.
lith. — To-day I started my Kaffirs in quest of my other hunters. The rivers had detained them until now, as they are frightened at deep water and very few of them can swim. I mended a gun belonging to one of them, and he went off in high spirits.
We had a long chase after an old bull buffalo, along the river’s edge. I put forth all my powers to beat Mahoutcha, a fine Kaffir, who aggravated me by passing me at railway speed. I had the advantage of him, as he had a gun to carry and I none. We passed and re-passed one another about six times, my gun changing hands three times. I was utterly blown, and just about to yield the palm to Mahoutcha, though I was leading, when luckily for my credit the buffalo took the water and vanished into the dense bush on the other side,
I espied water-buck over the river, waded, and got
UNCOMFORTABLE QUARTERS.
121
a long shot at a fine doe, which we eventually bagged after a long chase. We were kept awake in the night by the dogs fighting wolves, and turned out once, thinking we heard buffaloes drinking, but the sound proved to be only running water.
lbth. — Off long before daylight down the river after sea-cows. I scrambled into a tree to see over the reeds, and got a shot, and though my gun hung fire, I struck him fairly, hearing the bullet pat. While waiting for it to rise, the rain came on furiously, and continued all day.
Anything more miserable than our situation can hardly be conceived. I made a kind of awning for my Kaffirs out of my large blanket, and they were comparatively snug. The ground was saturated with rain, all my traps wet and unwholesome, and my tent had begun to leak. This kind of life is suf¬ ficiently hard in fine weather, but in the drenching rain one gets in Africa it is positively unbearable, and enough to give the most light-hearted fellow a fit of the blues. As I had no cooking utensils of any kind except a kettle, all I could do was to roast my meat on a stick.
16 th [Sunday). — I was lying in my little 91b. tent enjoying Byron’s poems, and meaning to have a day of rest, when the Amatongas came in a large body and were most importunate that I should go out to shoot them some meat, as they were very hungry ; and there came also a lot of pretty girls to back their entreaties, bringing me small presents of
122
AFRICAN HUNTING.
meal, rice, eggs, and beer. I at length agreed. They shortly hit off the spoor of two old bull buffaloes which had fed on an open plain early in the morning. We spoored them beautifully into a dense thicket, black as midnight, and so still and silent y